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How-Tos > Backcomb Balayage Technique from George Papanikolas
October 21, 2014

Backcomb Balayage Technique from George Papanikolas

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  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

Show Steps
1

Create a horseshoe parting and clip away the top.

  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

Show Steps
2

Working in large horizontal sections below the parting, apply Formula A in v-shaped sections. There should be hardly any product on the brush so that the lightener is applied only to the surface of the section without saturating the hair. The lightener should be the consistency of yogurt for easy distribution. Begin the application at the midshaft and feather upward, then apply more pressure and more product as work progresses along the sides to the ends.

  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

Show Steps
3

On the sides, direct the hair straight back and feather a small amount of lightener gently across the surface. This is where the hair is pulled back, so it’s important for the highlights here to be subtle and well-blended.

  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

Show Steps
4

Protect the bottom section with cotton and release the top.

  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

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Show Steps
5

Work around the top section as before, applying the lightener in v-shaped horizontal sections.

  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

Show Steps
6

Cover the head with plastic and process with heat for 20 minutes.

  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

Show Steps
7

Remove the plastic. At this point, the lightener will stop processing and the product will be powdery. Section the hair as shown.

  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

Show Steps
8

Working in large horizontal sections once more, backcomb the base of each section to produce a finer end section.

  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

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Show Steps
9

Apply Formula B in a v-shape along the non-backcombed section and secure with foil.

  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

Show Steps
10

Work in a bricklay pattern throughout the back. Release the top and continue. If you’re applying lightener to a section that has already been lightened, carefully blend the new application with the previous application. Process and gently comb out the backcombing at the shampoo bowl.

  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

Show Steps
11

Backcomb Balayage Finished Look

  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

Backcomb Balayage Technique from George Papanikolas

For delicate, tone-on-tone highlights that uses a minimum number of foils, this two-step backcomb balayage technique is your best bet according to Matrix Celebrity Stylist George Papanikolas who works with celebs like Kim and Khloe Kardashian, Madonna and Hailey Baldwin.

“These looks are modern because they’re seamless, and they’re super low-maintenance. My girls only come in two-to-four times a year,” says George. “They’re also fast—I don’t use a lot of foils at all. I don’t want eight hour projects in the salon!”

Manufacturer: Matrix, @matrix

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Formula A

    Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Light Master + 30-volume developer

HOW-TO STEPS

  • create a horseshoe section in the hair
    • Formula A

      Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Light Master + 30-volume developer

    1

    Create a horseshoe parting and clip away the top.

  • hand pain the hair in a V section
    • Formula A

      Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Light Master + 30-volume developer

    2

    Working in large horizontal sections below the parting, apply Formula A in v-shaped sections. There should be hardly any product on the brush so that the lightener is applied only to the surface of the section without saturating the hair. The lightener should be the consistency of yogurt for easy distribution. Begin the application at the midshaft and feather upward, then apply more pressure and more product as work progresses along the sides to the ends.

  • hand painting balayage highlights around the face
    • Formula A

      Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Light Master + 30-volume developer

    3

    On the sides, direct the hair straight back and feather a small amount of lightener gently across the surface. This is where the hair is pulled back, so it’s important for the highlights here to be subtle and well-blended.

  • using cotton to section with balayage
    • Formula A

      Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Light Master + 30-volume developer

    4

    Protect the bottom section with cotton and release the top.

  • balayage in the crown using horizontal sections
    • Formula A

      Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Light Master + 30-volume developer

    5

    Work around the top section as before, applying the lightener in v-shaped horizontal sections.

  • allow balayage to process
    • Formula A

      Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Light Master + 30-volume developer

    6

    Cover the head with plastic and process with heat for 20 minutes.

  • section hair for balayage application
    • Formula A

      Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Light Master + 30-volume developer

    7

    Remove the plastic. At this point, the lightener will stop processing and the product will be powdery. Section the hair as shown.

  • backcomb hair before balayage to create a soft effect
    • Formula A

      Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Light Master + 30-volume developer

    8

    Working in large horizontal sections once more, backcomb the base of each section to produce a finer end section.

  • painting hair - balayage application
    • Formula A

      Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Light Master + 30-volume developer

    9

    Apply Formula B in a v-shape along the non-backcombed section and secure with foil.

  • bricklay pattern balayage application
    • Formula A

      Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Light Master + 30-volume developer

    10

    Work in a bricklay pattern throughout the back. Release the top and continue. If you’re applying lightener to a section that has already been lightened, carefully blend the new application with the previous application. Process and gently comb out the backcombing at the shampoo bowl.

  • Backcomb balayage technique finished look
    • Formula A

      Matrix Light Master + 40-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Light Master + 30-volume developer

    11

    Backcomb Balayage Finished Look

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