How To Turn A Brassy Lift Into A Brunette Balayage

“Chocolate Blonde” Toners, Blending Tips & Hacks

Whether it was an accidental band or a foundational lift, blending out a brassy Level 8 foil requires a specific formula for any chance at a seamless end result. 

Dive into our list of formulas, application techniques and at-home care for every “chocolate blonde” in your chair this season. 

PS—Hey international fam! Please note within these tips, mentions of Moroccanoil® Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Gloss and Gloss Activator are known as Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Cream and Oxidative Cream Developer outside of North America. 

#1. You Don’t Always Have To Lift The Base To Blend

“Feather lightener upwards” is something most stylists see at least twice a day on their social feeds. When getting rid of bands, stop and remember—you don’t always need to lift through them! Instead of bringing lightness up the hair shaft to blend, drag the natural base Level downwards to blend into the existing blonde. 

Moroccanoil® International Influencer Oana Ciofu (@hair_by_oana) says, “Lifting the natural base can be easy, but only lasts for a month. I only change the base IF we are talking about a high percentage of gray coverage,” she explains. “In the first session I only color melt to create a base for the next balayage appointment, that way she isn’t back every month for a root retouch.” 

Click below for Oana’s full breakdown on IG:

#2. 3 Brass-Free Brunette Formulas Your Clients Will Love

Moroccanoil® International Influencers from around the world took to IG to share their must-try formulas using Moroccanoil Color Calypso Chocolate Series for the perfect brunette at any Level. Undertones in the color series range from coppery caramels to iridescent rose shades, specifically made to enhance (not cover) rich, deep brunette hues. 

1. UK-based colorist Mario Moura (@mm.hairlondon) shares an effective (just an hour-and-a-half appointment!) transformation using two shades from the Color Calypso Chocolate Series.

Try this chemical-free root formula:

• Roots– Leave at the natural base level. 
• Foilayage– Moroccanoil® Blonde Voyage Lightener + 5-volume Oxidative Cream Developer
• Midlength– Color Calypso Chocolate Series 15g 4.9Ch + 5-volume Oxidative Cream Developer (1:2)
• Ends– Color Calypso Chocolate Series 15g 6.9Ch + 5-volume Oxidative Cream Developer (1:2)

Click below for Mario’s full transformation video:

2. All the way from Germany, Nooshin Saedi (@nooshins.hairgoals) shares a fast, easy chocolate formula perfect for any client looking for a rich hue.

Nooshin’s Formula:

• Color Calypso 40g 5.0N + 15g 4.9Ch + 5-volume Oxidative Cream Developer

3. When your client needs an all-over refresh, try Mario’s quick formula that he describes as, “A stunning chocolate blonde look created with just a toning service!”

Mario’s dimensional “Chocolate Blonde” Formula:

• Roots– Leave at the natural base level
• Midlength and ends– Color Calypso Chocolate Series 50g 6.9Ch + 5-volume Oxidative Cream Developer (1:2)

Click here for Mario’s full transformation:

Looking for a rich backbar upgrade? View the entire Color Calypso Chocolate Series swatch book here.

#3. Flash Toning At-Home Color Protection Hack 

Whether you’re looking for a semi-permanent option at the bowl or want to send your clients home with some color insurance, Moroccanoil® Color Depositing Mask can be tailored to either scenario. 

Málaga, Spain-based colorist Oliver Florido (@oliverflorido) shares an at-the-bowl toning technique using the Color Depositing Mask in shade Cocoa. The pigmented hair mask nourishes hair while depositing color onto the cuticle, making it an easy option for clients to bring home for extended color wear. 

Watch Oliver’s demo here:

Tone rich, expensive-looking brunettes with easy formulation—try the Chocolate Series!

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