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Articles > Brunette Balayage WITHOUT Brass! 3 Tips You Must Try
May 13, 2022

Brunette Balayage WITHOUT Brass! 3 Tips You Must Try

How To Create A Rich, Dimensional Brunette Without Brassy Tones

“I want to be lighter, but I don’t want my hair to be warm.” If only we had a dollar every time we heard this, huh? Take these three tips to the chair to create beautiful, blended tones on your brunette clients without brassy tones. Try out this sectioning technique, nape foiling hack and gloss formula for the perfect blonde on your dark-haired clients. 

 

1. Sectioning Cheat To Prevent Harsh Lines

When creating dimensional color with a lot of contrast, you need to be sure each section is blending into one another. To avoid harsh lines of demarcation or heavy pockets of blonde throughout the head, try this sectioning technique from Moroccanoil® Artist Rochelle Maribojoc (@locksbyrochelle)!

 

@locksbyrochelle sectioning diagram for blended dimension: 

  1. Section the hair down the center from the front hairline all the way back to the nape. (This will separate the left from the right side of the hair).
  2. Next, section from the apex to the top of the ear on each side. (This will separate the front from the back of the hair). 
  3. Find your client’s recession line on the front hairline and section back, meeting the apex parting created in step 2. 
  4. Section out money piece partings at the front hairline and the nape of the neck. The sizing of these sections is dependent on how bright of a blonde your client wants!

 

 

2. Use The Nape Section As An Extension Of The Face-Frame

The nape section can make or break a bright balayage. When clients wear their hair up or bring it in front of their shoulders the underneath is exposed. Rochelle recommends treating the nape money piece section as if it were part of the face-frame. 

 

“Usually, our clients bring their hair forward,” says Rochelle. “That means the underneath nape section will connect to the face frame so all of the lighter pieces need to blend together.”

 

Pro Tip: If clients want a partial highlighted look, emphasize the nape section with this technique! Putting extra attention on the nape will give your clients the partial highlight look without the (typically) lower partial highlight price. “I tend to stay away from the word partial when blonding, it makes my clients feel as if they aren’t getting a full service,” says Rochelle. 

 

Finished model from @locksbyrochelle

 

 

3. Gloss And Tone Formula For A Neutral Blonde On Dark Hair 

Clients with a natural Level 2 to 3 will lift warm no matter what, so using a strong lightener that will break through the majority of brass without damaging the hair is key. Rochelle uses Moroccanoil® Blonde Voyage Powder Lightener to foil her dark-haired clients before toning. 

 

“My biggest tip is to not over foil clients with dark hair. I still want them to be brunette, so I’m not packing my foils close together,” Rochelle explains. Once she’s achieved enough lift, Rochelle recommends this gloss and toning formula to get her clients to the non-brassy tones they love! 

 

Gloss and tone formula: 

Root formula: Moroccanoil® Color Calypso Demi-permanent Gloss 5NColor Calypso Gloss Activator

Mids to ends formula: Color Calypso Demi-permanent Gloss equal parts 8N + 8VB + Color Calypso Gloss Activator 

 

close formula

 

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