When To Formulate With Ash Gold Toners

Bright, Reflective Blondes: How To Avoid Toning Too Dark or Muddy 

Picture this: You spent so much time foiling and glossing the “cool blonde” your client requested, but you go to rinse the toner and your client looks darker than when they came in—what happened?! We’re breaking down why your “ash blondes” look dull, when to pre-tone, how to control warmth with balanced formulation and so much more.

Let’s Talk Formulation: How To Balance Ash & Gold

When your client is requesting an “ash blonde,” what are they really asking for? Even our guests who want to feel super cool need a little gold in their formulas to keep their color bright. We’ve all been there: We end up over-ashing their toner formula and the results appear to be dull and almost gray, losing any natural brightness or reflect.

When your client shows you her inspiration photos during the consultation, make sure to ask what is it that she really likes about the tonal direction. This will save you time and a potential redo request later.

Have you ever have a guest request an “ash blonde” when they really want this?

• Formula A (lightener):

  Moroccanoil® Blonde Voyage Powder Lightener + 20-volume developer

• Formula B (root shadow):

  Moroccanoil® Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Color 3.0 + 6.1 + developer

• Formula C (wet balayage):

  Moroccanoil® Blonde Voyage Clay Lightener + 20-volume developer

• Formula D (gloss):

  Color Calypso 10.1 + 10.3 + developer

Photo Credit: Instagram via @jessicascotthair

“This is not ash. Ash tones reflect less light which, therefore, will look darker,” Moroccanoil® Global Color Ambassador Jessica Scott Santo (@jessicascotthair) explains, adding that, “If you’re using too much of an ash color, it’s going to really dull the blonde and look a little bit muddy.”

Balancing cool tones with warm tones can be tricky, but gold is a must for creating brightness. Thankfully, Moroccanoil® Global Color Ambassador Rachel Williams (@rachelwstylist) knows exactly what to reach for when receiving this client request: Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Color Ash Gold Series. “These are for that client that wants coolness, but reflection: They want it bright. That’s when I reach for the Ash Gold Series. You have that cool tone with reflection for the perfect balance.”

Click the beaker to get Rachel’s reflective blonde formulas:

• Formula A (foils):

  Moroccanoil Blonde Voyage Powder Lightener + 20-volume developer

• Formula B (root tap):

  Moroccanoil Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Color 4.17 + 6.17 + developer (equal parts)

• Formula C (gloss):

  Moroccanoil Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Color 10.13 + developer 

Photo Credit: Instagram via @rachelwstylist

Create bright blondes with reflection by using Ash Gold Shades.

5 More Color Scenarios To Use Ash Gold Toners

1. Create Controlled Warmth in Caramel Colors

Working with a dark base? When lifting lower levels, we’re exposing lots of underlying warmth like orange and yellow tones. That’s why it’s important to use a toner that will not only neutralize the unwanted pigment, but also enhance and control it. That’s where Ash Gold comes in:

When lifting a natural Level 4, try toning to a warm caramel color using a mix of Color Calypso 9.2 + 9.13 + 7.2 + developer.

Photo Credit: Instagram via @janaeraquelmiller

2. Save Time By Using Permanent Color

Tone, shift the base and get a little extra lift in the hair left out of foils… all in one step?! Yes. Try Jessica’s genius toning trick by applying Moroccanoil® Color Rhapsody Permanent Color Ash Gold Series to the hairline to lift on base as well as brighten blonde ends off base. This formula and technique will not only save time, but help you easily create the most gorgeous buttery blonde:

• Formula A (toner):

  Moroccanoil® Color Rhapsody Permanent Color 10.13 + Clear + 5-volume developer

Photo Credit: Instagram via @jessicascotthair

3. Clients Lifting Red?! Try This Pre-Toning Trick

When lifting clients with a dark base, it’s not uncommon to run into orange, even red tones in the underlying pigment. Try this pre-toning tip from Moroccanoil® Global Color Ambassador Greg Gilmore (@greg_gilmore) to eliminate excess warmth:

“Color Calypso Ash Gold Series is a great, clutch toner for going in and neutralizing some of that warmth,” explains Greg. “A lot of the time, I’ll use it as a precursor, to pre-tone [the hair]. And then, after I’ve eliminated a lot of the warmth, I can go in with my real tone after that.”

4. Avoid A Dark Hairline:

To achieve brightness around the face, never skip this step. Rachel will start toning the back section first, leaving the face frame out initially to create two separate toning zones. Here’s why:

“I want to maintain that brightness around the face and that front section always seems to grab toner a little faster. So, this will keep your client nice and bright,” Rachel explains.

Photo Credit: Instagram via @rachelwstylist

BONUS! Save Rachel’s formulas (mixing in Ash Gold) for a bright, reflective blonde by clicking the beaker below:

• Formula A (root tap):

  Moroccanoil® Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Color 8.21 + developer 

• Formula B (gloss):

  Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Color 10.21 + 9.13 + developer 

Photo Credit: Instagram via @rachelwstylist

Take the stress out of formulation: Try Ash Gold Shades.

Products Used

Hair Color

Blonde Voyage Powder Lightener

Moroccanoil®

Color Calypso Ash Gold Series

Moroccanoil®

Hair Color

Blonde Voyage Clay Lightener

Moroccanoil®

This content is sponsored.