How Larisa Love Adds Depth To Ash Blondes
Watch How @larisadoll Adds Depth To Ash Blondes
Formulating the perfect ash blonde to fit any client isn’t easy, but Joico Global Brand Ambassador Larisa Love (@larisadoll) shows you how! Keep scrolling to get her expert tips on sectioning, why she increases her developers by five, how to get a sunkissed money piece and what toner shade you should always include in your formulas.
Then watch the full tutorial above where she walks you through highlight and lowlight placement and how she mixes her toner formulas for a customized look. PLUS, don’t forget to take a peek at the finished look and grab the formulas below!
Check Out The Before & After!
Section The Top Behind The Crown
For this technique Larisa sections the entire head into six parts, but the placement at the top of the head is important to create less work when highlighting.
- Section the top a little behind the crown area instead of directly at the crown. When the hair falls back it will have the appearance of a full head of highlights.
- Finish off by sectioning both sides right above the ear and the rest at the nape of the neck for six parts total.
Increase The Developer By 5 For Even Lift
Larisa’s trick when when highlighting a full head is to increase her developers by five as she works so everything lifts evenly. Simply start at the money piece with the lowest volume developer and increase until you get to the crown area—usually the healthiest part of the hair—where you can use the highest volume. It’s OK to move slow and steady. If the front finishes processing before you start the crown, rinse the hair at the bowl and keep going.
Pro Tip: To get 15- and 25-volume developer, mix half and half of 10- and 20-volume to make 15-volume and half and half of 20- and 30-volume to create 25-volume.
Tap The Beaker For The Formulas!
- Prep Treatment
Joico Defy Damage Pro-Series 1
- Formula A
Joico Blonde Life Powder Lightener + 5-volume Joico LumiShine Developer, working up to 20-volume
- Formula B
Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 9SB + 2 Caps 8AA + 5-volume LumiShine Developer
- Formula C (Toner 1)
1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 10V + 1 oz. 10SB + 2 Caps 8AA + 5-volume LumiShine Developer
- Formula D (Toner 2)
1 oz. LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 8N + ½ oz. 9SB + ½ oz. 7SB + 2 Caps 8AA + 2 Caps 7V + 5-volume LumiShine Developer
- Post Treatment
Joico Defy Damage Pro-Series 2
Toning Formulation Tips
To get an ash blonde finish and cut brass, Larisa mixed up the new Joico LumiShine Ash Ash series while dropping some crucial toning tips:
- There’s no toner that can make the hair ash blonde if it hasn’t been lifted high enough. Make sure the hair reaches a rich banana yellow to achieve the correct finished tone.
- Scared by double ash formulation? Add an N shade to the AA shade to give yourself some formulation insurance, because the AA series is very pigmented!
- Same thing for V series formulations—if you’re anxious about the hair going TOO violet, add N for insurance.
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