How To Create A Natural Shadow Root Through Teasing
Larisa Love’s “Pick Me Up” Placement & Foiling Method
A technique that’s fast, efficient and updates your service menu in a fresh way? Say less! BTC joined Joico Brand Ambassador and Global Artistic Director Larisa Love (@larisadoll) in Phoenix, Arizona to learn some of her signature techniques—plus, we got all the goal setting, dream-chasing inspo. Keep reading to learn Larisa’s signature “pick me up” foiling method and pro tips to formulate to complement your client’s skin tone.
#1: The “Pick Me Up” Method: Why You Should Try It
This brightening technique is perfect for clients who are back for a refresh after getting a full foil. Providing a soft and effortless finish, this quick, high-impact blonding technique requires only 20 foils making it perfect for a touch-up appointment.
“We can overprocess the hair, we can overlap and lose all of the beautiful depth and dimension that the client has,” Larisa added, which is why she loves this technique. See her finished foil placement below:
Pro Tip: Renaming a “partial” service on your menu eliminates a lot of uncertainty from clients assuming that they may not be getting a “full” service. By scheduling a “pick me up” appointment, you’re leaving no room for interpretation from the client beyond that they are getting a quick blonding service with high coverage.
2. How To Create A Shadow Root Without Color
Make your life easier by utilizing smart techniques when lightening to avoid needing to use toner to fix or correct any unblended pieces. That’s where Larisa’s teasing rule of thumb comes in: “I always tease [my section] one extra time as I move toward the back,” she explained to the class, adding that: “The hair is going to gradually fall a little bit lower to create that natural shadow root effect without having to rely on the shadow root.”
At the Mohawk, Larisa will tease once. As she moves to the back, she will tease twice and in the back, she will tease three times. Pro Tip: Remember that the more you tease, the lower the color falls. “What goes up, must come down,” Larisa said.
Remember This: “It’s all about understanding when, how and why to tease,” Larisa explained, which is why she adjusts the way she teases for her client’s desired end result:
- For clients that want lots of depth and dimension: Start teasing from the bottom of the section to create deep contrast
- For clients that want a natural shadow root: Start the tease in the midlength of the section
- For clients that want a rooty look: Start teasing two inches away from the roots
3. How To Customize This Fast Service For Each Client
Have you ever had a client dead set on leaving with an icy, platinum blonde, but you just know a warmer, golden-toned color would suit their skin tone so much better? Try Larisa’s convo starter to explain color theory to your clients:
- If your client has blue veins: They’re cool-toned, so the opposite of cool will complement. Think: Copper, gold, red.
- If your client has green veins: They’re warm-toned, so the opposite of warm will complement. Try silver, platinum or ash.
The common denominator that complements everyone? Beige. “It’s the perfect medium of cool and warm,” Larisa explains. “So if you don’t know what color is going to look good, run straight to beige.
Click the beaker to get Larisa’s formulas:
- Formula A (lightener):
Joico BlondeLife Powder Lightener + 10-volume developer (1:1)
- Formula B (root tap):
Joico Liquid Lumishine 7BV + 8N (2:1) + developer
- Formula C (mid to ends toner):
Liquid Lumishine 2 ½ oz 10NG + a cap of 6CCR + developer
Pro Tip: Remember, warmth is a must for bright blondes! “I added a cap of Joico LumiShine 6CCR because she lifted pretty light and I wanted to add that warmth back into her hair,” Larisa explained.
“People always ask me what I use on my clients for their hair to be so shiny and to be honest, it’s not the products, it’s the color line. It’s called LumiShine for a reason: It leaves the hair two times shinier, it has a built-in bond builder and leaves the hair extra strong,” Larisa added.
This content is sponsored.
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