Before

Take a triangle section beginning from below the occipital. This section is where you will begin the cut. Clip the other hair out of the way. The first section will be slightly shorter for a slight undercut. Working on damp (not sopping wet) hair, comb the section down.

Pro Tip: Chris cuts the neckline wet for precision. Later, he’ll blow-dry and personalize on dry hair, but beginning on damp hair allows for control.

Cut to length using minimal tension. Chris works in a slight C-shape to preserve the outer corners. “The last thing you want to bob to do is run uphill,” angling up towards the face, Chris said. The C-shape ensures it will hug the neckline.

Detail the neckline section, working precisely.

Drop the hair and comb down the next layer to cut, again in a triangle formation. Point cut this section to desired length, combing the hair down and again using minimal tension. Follow the same line you created with the first section. “The first line that hugs the next is crisp, then the next section gets a little softer,” Chris said.

Chip away at the line until you achieve the desired effect, using your hand or a comb to keep the hair still. Use minimal or no tension.

Drop the rest of the hair and take more hair at the back of the head, still working in an angled section. Continue working in the same manner, point cutting with minimal tension.

Drop all of the hair and comb to natural fall. Using ARC Master Series Symmetry 10/10 Reversible Texturizers on dry hair, cut the remaining long hair at the back of the head and the sides to desired length. “It’s like sketching with a pencil,” Chris said about using texturizing scissors at this point. “It cuts, but doesn’t cut every hair, so I can go back in and perfect that line.”

Switch back to regular shears. Clean up the line on either side of the head.

To style for maximum fullness, mist the hair with Virtue® Finale Shaping Spray and use a 1-inch Hot Tools Black Gold Marcel Iron. Start by wrapping the hair as shown.

Pro Tip: Chris works with high heat because he works quickly. “The heat should match your ability,” he said. “If you’re faster, you can afford to work at higher heat.”

Release the hair as shown.

Pro Tip: Chris prefers the Black Gold Marcel Iron because it doesn’t show any corrosion or product buildup, plus he feels a Marcel iron separates a licensed hairdresser’s expertise from what clients can do at home.

Curl away from the face at the front and alternating directions as you work. Alternating this way in a bricklay pattern around the head keeps the hair from forming together in one large curl as the day goes on—click here to learn how to do it on any length!

Use your fingers to shake out the waves. Chris also uses a wide-tooth comb sometimes to comb through the waves and achieve the lived-in look.

For maximum fullness (perfect for Insta pics), have the client tilt forward and shake the hair towards her face, then stand up straight. 

Snap your pics and send her on her way!

Finished look.