3 Foiling Tips For Painting High-Contrast Brondes

3 Foil Tips For High-Contrast Brondes

With the change in seasons comes a change in haircolor trends, and bronde is quickly rising to the top. So the unofficial queen of bronde, BTC Team Member Caitlin Dugan (@coloredbycaitlin), shared her foil placement technique for transitioning clients to this high-contrast shade. Keep scrolling to learn some of her top tips, like how to avoid lines of demarcation and prevent foil slippage, then click here to purchase her full 90-minute course on BTC University and receive unlimited access!

Takeaway Tips:

You can learn Caitlin’s full technique in her 90-minute course, but we’re teasing these tips you need to know now!

Tip #1: Make Highlights POP With Vertical Sections 

Working off of a center part and taking vertical sections instead of horizontal, Caitlin can make bold, dimensional ribbons and cover more area. “Vertical sections stand out more because the highlights start higher and splash over the section whereas horizontal sections lay over the hair like a sheet, creating more of a blended look” explains Caitlin. 

Tip #2: Avoid Slipping Foils With These Easy Tricks

If you are like Caitlin and not comfortable using a board to stabilize sections, foil slippage is a real concern when highlighting large areas. Caitlin shared a few tricks to avoid slipping foils:

• Mix the right consistency. Caitlin mixes a thinner consistency. Why? “When the lightener isn’t so thick, it glides on the hair better and it also sticks easier to the foil,” she explains. 

• Choose the right foils. Since she is working in large sections, it’s important that Caitlin’s foils are big enough to hold the highlights and stay in place. Caitlin recommends the 711 Hair Foil Sheets by Reynolds.

• Adjust your body position. After applying a majority of the lightener, Caitlin releases her tension on the weave and grabs the foil at the top left corner. “Once you’re holding the top of the foil, really work that product down when you’re blending. Almost shimmying the product down,” she adds. 

Pro Tip: Initially apply the lightener on the section where you want to see the most brightness. This will also glue the section down, helping to keep foils in place when blending product through the section.  

Tip #3: Backcomb To Blend Harsh Lines

Avoid lines of demarcation by using a comb to brush product up after the section has been completely saturated in a foil. “This will create a better blend and eliminate any harsh lines. It will also avoid relying heavily on a root shadow to melt away any lines of demarcation,” Caitlin explains. 

Slide For The Stunning Before & After!

• Formula A (teasylights and babylights)
  Wella Professionals BlondorPlex + 20-volume Wella Professionals Welloxon Perfect Developer

   

  Note: Mix in a small amount of 30-volume developer when working in the crown area. 
• Formula B (lowlights)

  Redken Shades EQ .50 oz. 6NB + .50 oz. 6GI + .25 oz. 8GG + equal parts Shades EQ Processing Solution

• Formula C (root shadow)

  Shades EQ .50 oz. 5N + .50 oz. 5NW + .25 oz. 7P + equal parts Shades EQ Processing Solution 

• Formula D (mids to ends)

  Shades EQ 1.5 oz. 10VV + .50 oz. 10N + .50 oz. 9GI + .50 oz. 9P + equal parts Shades EQ Processing Solution

Have Questions? Caitlin Has Answers!

One of the benefits of watching a course on BTC University? Artists are able to answer your questions in REAL TIME! Here are some technical questions viewers had for Caitlin during her livestream:

Question: Do you ever add in a filler formula for lowlights for when blonde clients are too blonde?

Answer: “Yes, I do! I always like to add some additional warmth in there just case. I want everything to look rich, I never want the color to look dull or drabby. To save a step, I formulate my lowlights with a filler tone included. So for example, if  a client is very light, I would add a splash of C right into the lowlight formula just to penetrate that excess pigment.” 

Q: What products do you suggest to clients for at-home maintenance?

A: “First, I always recommend professional products that are sulfate free and color safe. I love the KENTE® BOND line from SEVEN Haircare because it really gives my blondes that extra nourishment and reparative properties they need after lightening. If my clients need help fighting off brassy tones, the RINZU® HELIO Violet Shampoo from SEVEN Haircare is great. As far as styling, honestly the most important product is a heat protectant like SEVEN’s HEAT DEFENSE Spray.” 

Click The Beaker For Caitlin’s Formula Breakdown!

• Formula A (teasylights and babylights)
  Wella Professionals BlondorPlex + 20-volume Wella Professionals Welloxon Perfect Developer

   

  Note: Mix in a small amount of 30-volume developer when working in the crown area. 
• Formula B (lowlights)

  Redken Shades EQ .50 oz. 6NB + .50 oz. 6GI + .25 oz. 8GG + equal parts Shades EQ Processing Solution

• Formula C (root shadow)

  Shades EQ .50 oz. 5N + .50 oz. 5NW + .25 oz. 7P + equal parts Shades EQ Processing Solution 

• Formula D (mids to ends)

  Shades EQ 1.5 oz. 10VV + .50 oz. 10N + .50 oz. 9GI + .50 oz. 9P + equal parts Shades EQ Processing Solution

Products Used

Conditioners

KENTE® BOND

SEVEN haircare

Hair

RINZU® HEAT DEFENSE spray

SEVEN haircare

Conditioners

RINZU® HELIO Violet Shampoo & Conditioner

SEVEN haircare

Bond Builders

WellaPlex

Wella Professionals

Hair Color

Welloxon Perfect

Wella Professionals

Demi-Permanent Color

Shades EQ

Redken

Glossing/ Toning

Shades EQ Processing Solution For Precision Application

Redken

Ready to learn Caitlin’s entire technique? Click here to purchase her class on BTC University and have unlimited access to the course!