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How-Tos > Men’s Overdirected Clipper Cut from TONIandGUY
November 18, 2014

Men’s Overdirected Clipper Cut from TONIandGUY

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Men’s Overdirected Clipper Cut from TONIandGUY

The scissor-over-comb technique has always been the standard go-to in customizing super short hair for men at TONI&GUY Salons and Academies, but the ever increasing popularity of the fade has made TONI&GUY relook at their men’s classic cut training and introduce the clipper cut into their newest edition of TONI&GUY Classic Collection. This classic clipper cut technique combines clipper cutting with an asymmetric layering pattern to give the ultimate in styling versatility.

 

Manufacturer: TONI&GUY, @toniguyusa

Products Used

HOW-TO STEPS

1

Take a horseshoe parting from the recession, angling down, underneath the crown. Position of the horseshoe will vary depending on the head shape.

2

Blow-dry the hair underneath the horseshoe.

3

Start in the center back of the nape using a #3 guard, and with one fluid motion work up toward the parietal ridge to remove the length.

4

The comb is used to hold the hair at the top. This helps push the lengths into the clipper and maintain the weight at the parietal ridge.

5

Continue through to the sides with the same technique.

6

Switch to a #1 guard. Return to the center back and repeat the technique to take it tighter; stopping short of the established weight line.

7

Continue this approach through to both sides. Around the ear, use the edge of the blade in a pivoting action to follow the curvature of the hairline.

8

Switch to a #1 1/2 guard to help create a blend between the occipital and the parietal, where the weight is being established.

9

Switch to a #2 guard. Re-work the entire underneath to create a fluid blend within all of the lengths.

10

Use a #2 1/2 guard at the parietal from the ear forward to help soften the top edge of the weight line.

11

With no guard, adjust the clippers to the highest setting, detail the sideburns and fade the hairline for a natural finish.

12

Release the horseshoe parting and take two diagonal forward sections from above the crown to the high recession. Start in the center back and comb to natural fall. Elevate to 45 degrees and point-cut onto the weight line.

13

Follow this technique all the way around the head shape.

14

Use the scissor-over-comb technique to ensure the graduation is blended cleanly.

15

Take a vertical section from the crown to the high recession. Comb the section perpendicular to the top of the head, and use the existing length at the crown as a guide, and point-cut the line square.

16

Take vertical sections throughout the top and overdirect each section back to the previous guideline, and point-cut square.

17

From the side parting, take a diagonal forward two inches from the hairline to the recession area. Comb the hair perpendicular to the parting, elevate to 45 degrees, and point-cut the line short to long.

18

Finish by combing all of the hair on the heavier side to natural fall. Elevate to one fingers depth and point-cut the line square, increasing in length.

19

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