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Articles > Hair Color > Jack Martin’s Top Color Formulas For Silver & Gray Transformations
January 4, 2022

Jack Martin’s Top Color Formulas For Silver & Gray Transformations

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Instagram via @jackmartincolorist

Clients Transitioning to Silver? Jack Martin Shares His Formulation Secrets!

No longer a telltale sign of aging beauty, more female clients are embracing their silver strands. But the transition is FAR from easy—especially creating a formula that is the perfect color match to their new natural. 

 

“It’s not about letting the gray hair appear, nor being passive about it. It’s about going gray in a proactive way,” shared colorist and gray hair expert Jack Martin (@jackmartincolorist) on Instagram. Known for transforming his clients from extreme color corrections to gorgeous silver shades, we’re sharing Jack’s best formulas and tips! 

 

Clients ready to embrace their gray? Try Jack’s go-to silver + gray shades: Shop here!

 

Hit play to watch Jack break down how to color match gray roots and formulate lowlights needed for the transformations!

 
 
 
 
 
View this post on Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Jack Martin (@jackmartincolorist)

 

Takeaway Formulas: 

  • Silver formula: Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal Absolutes 3/4 Silver + 1/4 Dove Grey + 7-volume developer

  • Dark Charcoal formula: IGORA Royal Absolutes Slate Grey + 10-volume developer

 

Look #1: Color correction to dimensional silver

 

Desired results: Color match the client’s natural gray and add dimension 

Time behind the chair: One session, 7 hours

 

Click the beaker for a full formula breakdown!

jack-martin-skp-grey-transformation-formulas-1
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  • Formula A (lightener)

    Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+ + 20-volume BLONDME Premium developer

     

    Processing time: Two hours

  • Formula B (pre-tone)

    Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Vibrance 9-5,21 + 0-11 booster + IGORA Vibrance Activator Lotion 

     

    Processing time: 10 minutes

  • Formula C (toner)

    BLONDME Pastel Toner Steel Blue + one dot of BLONDME Pastel Toner Lilac + IGORA Royal Absolutes Silver + 7-volume developer

     

    Processing time: 30 minutes 

  • Formula D (lowlights)

    Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal equal parts 6-12 + 8-11 + 7-volume developer

Instagram via @jackmartincolorist

 

Takeaway Tip #1: Create a gradient with the client’s natural color to achieve a seamless grow out

Using the natural root as a starting point, Jack creates a gradient of color that blends the client’s darker roots into bright, silver ends. 

 

jack-martin-skp-grey-transformation-formulas-4
Instagram via @jackmartincolorist

 

“I didn’t touch the natural roots at all, I just created a gradual dark to light silver ombré. This way, the client can enjoy growing out their hair and maybe come back for a retouch every five to six months,” Jack explains. 

 

Look #2: Blonde to all over silver transformation 

 

Desired results: Color match the client’s natural root

Time behind the chair: One session, 7 hours

 

Hit the beaker icon for Jack’s full formula!

jack-martin-skp-grey-transformation-formulas-2
open color formula
close formula
  • Formula A (lightener)

    Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+ + 20-volume BLONDME Premium developer

     

    Processing time: Two hours

  • Formula B (pre-tone)

    Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Vibrance 9-5,21 + 0-11 booster + IGORA Vibrance Activator Lotion 

     

    Processing time: 10 minutes

  • Formula C (toner)

    BLONDME Pastel Toner 1/4 Steel Blue + one dot of BLONDME Pastel Toner Lilac + 3/4 IGORA Royal Absolutes Silver + 7-volume developer 

     

    Processing time: 30 minutes

  • Formula D (lowlights)

    IGORA Royal equal parts 6-12 + 8-11 + 7-volume developer

Instagram via @jackmartincolorist

 

Related: Jack Shares His Tips For Making Toner Last 5 Months!

 

Takeaway Tip #2: Use strategic placement to blend partial gray strands

Some clients only have silver specks around their hairline. So, instead of transforming their entire look, Jack focuses on the face frame. Why? “Framing the face with silver blends the hairline roots and helps embrace the client’s natural color,” he explains. 

 

Jack shared an example of this in a video on his Insta! 

 
 
 
 
 
View this post on Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Jack Martin (@jackmartincolorist)

 

Look #3: Four-month refresh toning service

Desired result: Eliminate faded, pale yellow tones

 

Click the beaker icon for Jack’s toner & lowlight formulas!

jack-martin-skp-grey-transformation-four-month-refresh
open color formula
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  • Formula A (toner)

    1/2 Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal Absolutes Silver + 1/2 BLONDME Pastel Toner Ice + 7-volume BLONDME Cream developer

     

    Processing time: 30 minutes 

  • Formula B (lowlights)

    IGORA Royal equal parts 6-12 + 8-11 + 7-volume developer

Instagram via @jackmartincolorist

 

Takeaway Tip #3: Avoid a washed out complexion 

Clients feeling apprehensive about their new color? New makeup could be the answer. Jack shared this beauty tip: “I always advise clients to try different makeup after their transformation. For example, a darker eyebrow will create contrast against the silver, so their face won’t seem washed out,” he explains.

 

 

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