Formulas > Brunette > Caramel Chocolate Brunette With Gray Coverage
Last updated: January 16, 2024

Caramel Chocolate Brunette With Gray Coverage

By Melissa Maloney

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  • Formula A (gray coverage):

    Redken Color Gels Oils 4N + 20-volume developer

  • Formula B (lightener):

    Schwarzkopf Professional® BLONDME Lightener + 20-volume developer

  • Formula C (root smudge):

    Redken Shades EQ 06ABn + 04ABn + Shades EQ Processing Solution

  • Formula D (gloss):

    Shades EQ 2 parts 07NW + 1 part 07CB + 1 part 08VB + Shades EQ Processing Solution

Photo Credit: Instagram via @live_love_dohair

It’s a request we get constantly: Brunettes who want to go lighter, but fear brassiness. However; with strategic formulation, you can say goodbye to that unwanted warmth and leave them with the perfect amount of coolness. Below, we’re sharing a balanced caramel gray-coverage formula that’s designed to counteract brass by Melissa Maloney (@live_love_dohair).

 

Melissa has gone viral on IG dozens of times for her blended, lived-in looks, so it’s likely your clients could bring in one of her pics as inspo—be sure to save her tips and formulas to nail your client’s request!

 

Consultation Questions To Ask Gray Coverage Clients

Your consultation can make or break how happy your client is with their color when they leave: Be sure to define clear expectations from the start. “Everyone’s opinion of high maintenance is different,” Melissa explains. “Some clients don’t mind coming in often, as long as they don’t need to sit too long. And some clients can’t stand the thought of coming in more than every 12 weeks. We don’t know their preferences until we ask,” she adds.

 

Want more education from Melissa? Learn her tips for blending and covering grays in our Gray Coverage Guide—click here!

Who Did It

Artist: Melissa Maloney

Products Used

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Formula A (gray coverage):

    Redken Color Gels Oils 4N + 20-volume developer

  • Formula B (lightener):

    Schwarzkopf Professional® BLONDME Lightener + 20-volume developer

  • Formula C (root smudge):

    Redken Shades EQ 06ABn + 04ABn + Shades EQ Processing Solution

  • Formula D (gloss):

    Shades EQ 2 parts 07NW + 1 part 07CB + 1 part 08VB + Shades EQ Processing Solution

FORMULA STEPS

  1. Apply gray coverage retouch with Formula A.
  2. Use a foilayage technique with Formula B and lift to a Level 8. 
  3. Rinse and shampoo. 
  4. Apply a root smudge with Formula C, making sure to drop the root at least one inch past the start of the highlight. 
  5. Gloss with Formula D, using a brush to melt together the root smudge and gloss. 
  6. Rinse, condition, blow-dry and style. “I use my Mint Tools X-Long 1” Curling Iron for this look,” Melissa says.