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How-Tos > Lived-In Blonde Balayage
February 16, 2016

Lived-In Blonde Balayage

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Lived-In Blonde Balayage

Want to know how one of the hottest salons on the West Coast achieves the perfect, lived-in blonde balayage? Colorist Christine Silverman of Ramirez | Tran Salon, gives us the inside scoop on the process.

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HOW-TO STEPS

  • 1

    Have your client determine where her part is, accounting for natural growth patterns (cowlicks) at the back of head. Mark this area with Marianna Professional Yoyette Clips. Take a horseshoe-shaped section from temple to temple, including your previously marked parting. Gather this section on top of head with a butterfly clip.

  • 2

    Clip off vertical sections of hair in front of the client’s ear. Create 1 inch horizontal sections at the back of the head, going down as far as you want to add highlights.

  • 3

    Combine one scoop Solaris Free Flow Balayage Bleach + 40-volume peroxide. Mix until bleach is slightly thicker than sour cream (approximately 25 ml). Add 1/8 oz. b3 Brazilian Bond Builder to mixed bleach. This ensures damage-free highlights, deters the product from puffing and creates a smooth consistency of product.

  • 3
  • 4

    Thoroughly blend together until product is clump-free and is the consistency of sour cream.

    *Tip: Depending on the amount of hair the client has, you may need several bowls to finish your application, being sure to not mix too much product at once to minimize the oxidation process and allow for the brightest results.

  • 5

    Apply product to sections using a swooping motion, concentrating on the ends of the hair for a gradient or “melt” effect. Feather up toward the scalp to ensure no harsh lines.

  • 6

    Use 100 percent Cotton Coil to separate the sections. This allows the product to breathe during the process and prevents sections from touching each other and spotting.

  • 7

    When nearing the top of the head, if you are comfortable, you can add a higher volume developer to speed the lifting process so that both the bottom and the top of head lift equally by the time you are finished with application.

  • 8

    Refine the product with olive oil mixed with bond builder. This stops development of any areas you want to fade out. It’s also super beneficial to the hair. If further lifting is required, apply a plastic bag loosely clipped on top of the highlights and place the client under a dryer, checking frequently to ensure there is no over-processing.

  • 9

    Remove the cotton, and rinse. Apply smudge to root with a brush in a timely manner. For this session, Christine used L’Oreal Majirel 8.1 + 20-volume developer, applied to root area and rinsed, then shampooed with B3 Color Care Shampoo immediately.

    Apply a gloss to meld the highlights and cancel out tones from previous highlighting. Christine used L’Oreal DiaLight 10.12 + 9-volume developer + ¼ oz. b3 Brazilian Bond Builder. Gloss is applied with a brush on the root to approximately three inches out, then left for about a minute and then whooshed through the ends of the hair. Shampoo gloss using B3 Color Care Shampoo. Follow with B3 Reconstructor to further seal the cuticle and lock in the color.

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