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How-Tos > Short Take, Shine Line
December 28, 2016

Short Take, Shine Line

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  • Formula A

    Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

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Short Take, Shine Line

This disconnected undercut with a heavy top portion gets special treatment with a shine line that highlights its curves. The look is one of the standouts in Schwarzkopf Professional’s latest Essential Looks Collection. “When creating a disconnected undercut with a heavy overhanging top shape, always check the balance throughout the haircut,” advises Schwarzkopf’s Richard Ashforth. And here’s a color tip from Julie Alvarez: “When creating a shine line with color, always look at and follow the haircut shape even if you have to realign your sections.

 

Artist: Richard Ashforth
Colorist: Julie Alvarez
Creative Direction: Simon Ellis; Steve Hogan
Photographer: Karine Welter; Oliver Rust
Makeup Artist: Gudrun Mueller
Wardrobe: Lucy Manning

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Formula A

    Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

HOW-TO STEPS

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    • Formula A

      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    1

    Create a horseshoe section. Note that the shorter area underneath will not connect to the longer top area. Create a slight diagonal section at the front hairline and cut to desired length. The hair will be slightly longer through the temple area and shorter in the hairline area.

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    • Formula A

      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    2

    Work to the center back in this manner, working with static, vertical sections. Repeat on the opposite side.

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      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    3

    Use a scissor-over-comb technique throughout the hairline and perimeter to refine the hairline and create a close-fitted head shape. Always work with the natural hairline growth pattern.

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      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    4

    Proceed to the side and back overhang. Create horizontal sections, and cut to desired length. Point-cut for softness, and cut through the comb for control. These sections will not connect to the underneath area.

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      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    5

    Work up to the top of the head in this manner. Repeat the process on the opposite side. Elevate each parting slightly to soften the line.

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      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    6

    Create a section from the crown to the front hairline and point-cut to create softness and texture. Continue working in parallel sections in this manner.

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    • Formula A

      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    7

    Cross-check and refine the top section.

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      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    8

    Continue cross-checking and point-cutting the top section, then blow-dry with a flat wrap method.

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    • Formula A

      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    9

    Comb the hair to natural fall, and create the desired fringe length. Elevate and point-cut to create a soft line.

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      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    10

    Create a straight parting at the top of the crown and form a half circle to the apex.

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    • Formula A

      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    11

    Place the lightener 2 inches below the parietal ridge in a 2-inch section over the left ear.

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      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    12

    Move toward the center, continuing the 2-inch application technique.

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      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    13

    Continue working to the right side above the ear, connecting the 2-inch application. Do not go beyond the right ear.

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      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    14

    Drop a veil section over the previous application. The amount of hair will be based on how bright you want the finished shine line to be.

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      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    15

    Repeat steps 2 through 4.

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    • Formula A

      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    16

    Process until the desired level of lift is achieved.

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    • Formula A

      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    17

    Rinse, shampoo and condition with BC Color Freeze Shampoo and Conditioner. Blow-dry the hair, smooth the lengths with a flat iron and work in Osis+ Dust It for lift and separation.

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      Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond Cream Lightener + 3% (10-volume) Schwarzkopf Igora Royal Oil Developer

    18

    Finished Look

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Richard Ashforth