Last updated: May 31, 2017
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Short Take, Shine Line
This disconnected undercut with a heavy top portion gets special treatment with a shine line that highlights its curves. The look is one of the standouts in
Schwarzkopf Professional’s latest
Essential Looks Collection. “When creating a disconnected undercut with a heavy overhanging top shape, always check the balance throughout the haircut,” advises
Schwarzkopf’s Richard Ashforth. And here’s a color tip from
Julie Alvarez: “When creating a shine line with color, always look at and follow the haircut shape even if you have to realign your sections.
Artist: Richard Ashforth
Colorist: Julie Alvarez
Creative Direction: Simon Ellis; Steve Hogan
Photographer: Karine Welter; Oliver Rust
Makeup Artist: Gudrun Mueller
Wardrobe: Lucy Manning
HOW-TO STEPS
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1
Create a horseshoe section. Note that the shorter area underneath will not connect to the longer top area. Create a slight diagonal section at the front hairline and cut to desired length. The hair will be slightly longer through the temple area and shorter in the hairline area.
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2
Work to the center back in this manner, working with static, vertical sections. Repeat on the opposite side.
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3
Use a scissor-over-comb technique throughout the hairline and perimeter to refine the hairline and create a close-fitted head shape. Always work with the natural hairline growth pattern.
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4
Proceed to the side and back overhang. Create horizontal sections, and cut to desired length. Point-cut for softness, and cut through the comb for control. These sections will not connect to the underneath area.
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5
Work up to the top of the head in this manner. Repeat the process on the opposite side. Elevate each parting slightly to soften the line.
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6
Create a section from the crown to the front hairline and point-cut to create softness and texture. Continue working in parallel sections in this manner.
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7
Cross-check and refine the top section.
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8
Continue cross-checking and point-cutting the top section, then blow-dry with a flat wrap method.
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9
Comb the hair to natural fall, and create the desired fringe length. Elevate and point-cut to create a soft line.
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10
Create a straight parting at the top of the crown and form a half circle to the apex.
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11
Place the lightener 2 inches below the parietal ridge in a 2-inch section over the left ear.
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12
Move toward the center, continuing the 2-inch application technique.
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13
Continue working to the right side above the ear, connecting the 2-inch application. Do not go beyond the right ear.
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14
Drop a veil section over the previous application. The amount of hair will be based on how bright you want the finished shine line to be.
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15
Repeat steps 2 through 4.
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16
Process until the desired level of lift is achieved.
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17
Rinse, shampoo and condition with BC Color Freeze Shampoo and Conditioner. Blow-dry the hair, smooth the lengths with a flat iron and work in Osis+ Dust It for lift and separation.
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