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How-Tos > Trending: Base Blend
January 7, 2015

Trending: Base Blend

Formula A:

BES Non-Ammonia Bleaching Cream + 20-volume developer

Formula B:

Emulsion D (with 2.5 ph)

Formula C (purple toner):

Goldwell Elumen 40g Clear + 1 drop of VV@all

What could be better than melting ice blonde with a pastel lilac? Yeah, we couldn’t think of anything either! This cotton candy confection of lilac and creamy blonde, courtesy of Tracy Vasquez, owner and stylist at Scotch Bonnet Hair Studio, was inspired by the interior design practice of underlighting. It’s a new twist on blonde, and a great way to play with subtle pops of color. Here’s her top-secret “recipe.”

 

“Sherri is natural Level 6 and prior to this had been getting blonde on blonde base/highlights,” notes Tracey. “For the cut, I took her from a classic razor bob into a shorter hybrid of a textured g-bob with fringe and added some soft layers to collapse the shape as well (also achieved with a razor).”

Colorist: Tracy Vasquez
Manufacturer: BES; Goldwell, @goldwellus

COLOR FORMULAS

Formula A:

BES Non-Ammonia Bleaching Cream + 20-volume developer

Formula B:

Emulsion D (with 2.5 ph)

Formula C (purple toner):

Goldwell Elumen 40g Clear + 1 drop of VV@all

HOW-TO STEPS

Formula A:

BES Non-Ammonia Bleaching Cream + 20-volume developer

Formula B:

Emulsion D (with 2.5 ph)

Formula C (purple toner):

Goldwell Elumen 40g Clear + 1 drop of VV@all

1

Start by doing a double process using Formula A. Then, gradually increase the volume to 25 half way through the application.

2

Process the hair in a loose cap with elastic cut on either side, and place it gently over the head, lightening to a palest white/yellow.

3

After the double process, apply Formula B to stop the action of the lightener.

4

Dry the hair before the toner application, then apply the pastel purple tone using Formula C.”I test the drop of VV@all one at a time on the porous side of a white paper plate to give me an idea of the result,” says Tracy.  “For tones like this, you could use merely 1 to 2g of VV@all with a drop of Pk@all to 40 to 50g of Clear.” Tracy emphasizes the term “about” because she started with minimal pigment and was only adding 1 drop at a time until she had her desired tone. 

Formula A:

BES Non-Ammonia Bleaching Cream + 20-volume developer

Formula B:

Emulsion D (with 2.5 ph)

Formula C (purple toner):

Goldwell Elumen 40g Clear + 1 drop of VV@all

5

The next part is a term Tracy refers to as “Uplighting“—creating a lighted effect from the interior to create an overall glowing hue of light from the inside out. (Just like in interior design it’s used to create special effects in a room or highlight architectural detail.) 

6

Apply toner as you would a touch-up, starting in the crown first (since this is where Tracy wanted to see the strongest intensity of pigment and gently feathering/dragging out to create softness and to melt seamlessly into the paler ends). “For this technique, Tracy prefers to use a smaller 1-inch brush. “Avoid creating a harsh line, and allow the regrowth area to process about 15 to 20 minutes. Pull the toner through to the ends for the last minute to leave an even softer hue of the tone closer to the scalp (similar to ombré).