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How-Tos > Redken Acid Rain by Kristina Russell
September 30, 2010

Redken Acid Rain by Kristina Russell

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Redken Acid Rain by Kristina Russell

The Sydney native was trained in all aspects of color and has transferred that knowledge to hairdressing. Kristina finds inspiration in many different things. “Visual art, electronic art, people on the streets, tattoos, and animal fur and feathers really inspire me.” For the Inspiring World of Redken she created an overlay of acid color that was inspired by animation. “It captures the light and illuminates the hair.” Keyword search: colorglobal educationredken

HOW-TO STEPS

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    1

    Take a circular parting through the crown from approximately 2” in front of the high point of the head to just above the parietal ridge. Isolate with a clip. This is Section 3.

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    2

    Take a curved parting running from the right recession area to the left recession area. Isolate the section. This is Section 2. The remaining hair is Section 1.

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    3

    In Section 1, create a stationary guide by taking vertical partings and over-direct the hair forward at 90°. Place fingers diagonally and cut from shorter at the top to longer at the bottom. This will achieve a disconnected “under layer” through the sides to narrow the bulk of the shape.

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    4

    In Section 2, take ¼” radial sections that pivot from the high point of the head and elevate 45°. Place fingers diagonally, and cut from shorter through the top to longer toward the bottom. Continue around the section with no over-direction. Pro Tip: Use your creativity and work visually to leave the lengths shorter through the fringe area and longer through the sides and back.

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    5

    Repeat Step 2 in Section 3.

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    6

    To reduce bulk and create negative space in the fringe and face framing area, comb hair in its natural falling position and pinch and talk the shears.

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    7

    Highlight
    Formula 1
    – 1 part (20 g) Blonde Icing Power Lift
    – 1 part (20 g) 40 volume Blonde Icing Conditioning
    Cream Developer
    BASE
    Formula 2
    – 1 oz. (30 ml) 2N Color Fusion
    – 1 oz. (30 ml) 10 volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer
    Glaze
    Formula 3
    – ½ oz. (15 ml) Yellow Kicker Shades EQ
    – ½ oz. (15 ml) 09G Vanilla Crème Shades EQ
    – 1 oz. (30 ml) Shades EQ Processing Solution
    Formula 4
    – 1 oz. (30 ml) 09G Vanilla Crème Shades EQ
    -1 oz. (30 ml) Shades EQ Processing Solution

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    8

    Create an oval-shaped section that surrounds a side part. Clip the section out of the way. Isolate the rest of the hair with an elastic.

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    9

    Start in the back, take slices, and apply Formula 1 from scalp to ends. For faster, more
    even lift, apply using back-to-back foils. Complete the section.

    Pro Tip: To create the asymmetrical look seen in the photograph, apply Formula 1 to a small triangle section behind the ear opposite the part.

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    10

    Remove the elastic and apply Formula 2 from scalp to ends on the hair surrounding the foils. Direct the hair away from the face for a neat application. Complete the section and process at room temperature for 35-45 minutes. Rinse the outside section completely before removing the foils and rinsing the top section. Shampoo with Extreme. Dry the hair before Step 3.

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    11

    Work with the same sections as in Step 1. This time, create a second oval that is narrower, shorter in length and sits in the center of the first. See diagram.

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    12

    Begin with the smallest oval. Standing in the back, take slices and apply Formula 3 from scalp to ends using back-to-back foils. Apply Formula 4 to the blonde hair surrounding this section. Process at room temperature for 20 minutes. Rinse the outside section completely before rinsing the inside. Isolate the inside section and rinse quickly. Shampoo with Color Extend. Follow with Redken Chemistry.

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    13

    Mist rootful 06 root lifting spray on the roots. Layer wool shake 08 gel-slush texturizer and fabricate 03 heat-active texturizer throughout the ends. Blow-dry hair using a Denman™ type brush to create volume through the top area. Once dry, flat iron the ends. Finish by misting with workforce 09 flexible volumizing spray.