8 Ways To Avoid Bleeding Foils
Here’s How To Keep Your Foils From Bleeding
Slicing techniques are a fast, effective way to get maximum brightness on your wannabe blonde clients…but can be intimidating to do, especially if you’re worried about bleeding foils. That’s why we got these tips from Olivia Smalley (@omgartistry), Joico Brand Storyteller, who dropped her best tricks while she demoed this genius slicing technique in the video above!
1. Set Yourself Up For Success.
Use Joico Defy Damage Pro Series 1 Bond Protecting Spray to not only protect the client’s hair, but also ensure even lift. It evens porosity AND helps limit breakage, so you’re starting the service on a strong note.
2. Take Very Thin Sections.
A slice SOUNDS like a thick section, but in reality, it should be very thin and see-through, Olivia said. A too-thick section can cause unwanted bleeding between foils.
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3. Mix Lightener The Right Way.
Speaking of bleeding foils, you could be experiencing bleeds because of the way you’re mixing lightener. When Olivia mixes Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder, she gently stirs it to a toothpaste-like consistency—she NEVER whips it in the bowl. Why? Whipping the lightener adds oxygen which causes it to expand and ultimately, bleed in the foil. A consistency like toothpaste ensures the lightener stays where you put it. Anything runnier in texture can cause bleeds!
4. Keep Her Cool.
If your client’s head is really hot, you’ll see expansion in the foil right at her scalp, causing bleeds. Keep the air in the salon at a comfy temp, but not too hot (or she could overprocess) or too cold (or she’ll take forever to process).
5. Use A Low Developer.
Don’t rush to use 30- or 40-volume right away, Olivia said. Higher volume developers add more oxygen to the lightener to achieve faster lift—but this could also cause the lightener to expand in the foil. Start low and slow, and increase your developer as you work. Bonus tip: Olivia sometimes uses 20-volume as she foils, then opens the foils back up and applies 5-volume for added brightness at the ends.
Tap The Beaker For The Formulas!
- Formula A
Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20-volume developer
- Formula B
Joico Lumishine™ DD Dimensional Deposit Demi-Permanent Crème Color 8N + 5-volume developer
- Formula C
Lumishine™ DD Dimensional Deposit Demi-Permanent Crème Color 6N + 5-volume developer
- Formula D
Lumishine™ Liquid Demi-Permanent Color 10NWB + 5-volume developer
6. Tension Is Everything!
Lock the foil right at the root to stop slipping and bleeding with tension. Get the foil directly up against the scalp. Olivia uses her pinkie-pointer technique (see it in the video) to lock the foil in tight!
7. Work With The Rounds Of The Head.
Foiling too far past the round of the head can result in bleeding foils, because of the shape of the head. Avoid this by following the round of the head. Think about extension application—you never place them past the rounds of the head, or the extensions will be visible. Use the same rule for foiling with a slicing technique.
8. Don’t Crease The Foils.
You CAN fold foils, but don’t tightly crease them. If you crease the foil, you’ll push lightener off the hair, causing a line. Just gently fold, leaving a little “puffiness” at the fold, to allow the lightener to expand safely.
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