Color Melt & Shadow Root Formulation Tips For Porous Hair

Color Melt, Root Tap & All-Over Gloss: How To Formulate

Have you ever toned a blonde client for the end result to be splotchy and uneven? You’re not alone! Blonde clients, especially with previously lightened hair, can come in with dry, brittle or porous ends that can affect your formulation.

To avoid an uneven application, Moroccanoil® Elite Color Professional Rochelle Maribojoc (@locksbyrochelle) will walk you through the steps to properly formulate for porous hair during your color melt, root tap or shadow root service. Keep scrolling to get her tips! 

Check out the before & after below! 

How To Formulate For Porous Hair

“Your canvas plus your formulation is your result,” explains Rochelle. If your client comes in for this service with previously lightened hair, there’s a chance their ends may be frizzy, super-porous and dry—plus, we know how easily porous hair soaks up product!

To avoid an uneven application when color melting, Rochelle applies Moroccanoil® All In One Leave-In Conditioner to midlengths and ends to even out porosity by filling in damaged areas.

Next, to further combat extra-thirsty ends, Rochelle adds clear to the gloss to make up for the lack of moisture. Keep scrolling to get her formulas! 

Root Tap or Shadow Root VS Color Melt—When To Use Each Technique:

A root tap or shadow root paired with an all-over gloss is Rochelle’s typical protocol after blonding any client. What’s the difference between a root tap and a shadow root? Here’s your cheat sheet!

• Root Tap: Product is applied only an inch off the scalp.
• Shadow Root: Product is applied at the roots and dragged downward for more depth.

Get Rochelle’s root tap formula below!

• Formula A (root tap): Moroccanoil® Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Gloss 7.0/7N + Liquid Activator

• Formula B (all-over gloss): Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Gloss 8.21/8VB + Liquid Activator

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When To Color Melt:

A color melting technique can be used on blonde clients to:

• Add in depth
• Create a gradient/ombre effect
• Ensure blend

Save this for later: Rochelle’s color melt formulas!

• Formula A (roots): Moroccanoil® Color Rhapsody Permanent Cream Color 30g 5.0/5N + Moroccanoil® 5g Color Infusion Blue + 10-volume developer 
• Formula B (mids to ends): Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Gloss 20g 8.2/8V + 20g 8.1/8B + 10g Clear + Liquid Activator

Rochelle performed a color melt (left) and root tap with an all-over gloss (right) on her mannequin: Check out the difference side by side!

Want to learn how to formulate to enhance, soften or neutralize the underlying pigment? Click here to watch Rochelle’s FULL livestream!

Products Used

Hair Color

Color Rhapsody Permanent Cream Color

Moroccanoil®

Glossing/ Toning

Color Calypso Demi-Permanent Gloss

Moroccanoil®

Hair Color

Color Infusion Pure Color Mixer

Moroccanoil®

Haircare

All In One Leave-In Conditioner

Moroccanoil®

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