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Last updated: July 13, 2021

7 Tips For Foiling Bright, Summer Blondes

Foil Bright, Sandy Summer Blondes With These Tips!

What do you do if your client has a year’s worth of regrowth, but wants to be bright and blonde for summer? Joico Celebrity Artist Jill Buck (@jill901) has the technique for you! Keep scrolling to get Jill’s foiling tips for her “Sand Dollar Blonde” technique, then watch the video above for the full tutorial. Don’t forget to check out the finished look and grab the formulas!


For More Blonding Education From Jill, Click Here For Her Ice Blonde Pixie Tutorial!


1. Prep The Hair

Before you start applying lightener, protect the hair using Joico Defy Damage ProSeries 1. Simply apply the spray to dry hair in short bursts and brush through. Jill prefers using Pro Series 1, because she doesn’t have to add it to her formulas and worry about adjusting her formulations to accommodate any additives. 


Note: For extra protection on previously colored hair, Jill recommends also applying Joico Defy Damage ProSeries 2 to the ends before applying lightener for added security.


2. Powder Vs. Creme Lightener

Jill prefers to use Joico Blonde Life Crème Lightener when she wants to work slow and steady. Creme lightener doesn’t lift as fast as powder lightener which buys you time when foiling, plus it features a creamy consistency that stays in place. 


Check Out The Before & After!

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3. Make Sure The Client Has Realistic Expectations

Do you have clients coming back to your chair with extensive grow out wanting to be the brightest blonde possible? You’re not alone. Jill recommends being honest and setting realistic expectations during your consultation about how many sessions it will take to reach their desired level. Remind them that under normal circumstances you would have seen them multiple times already, so to preserve the integrity of their hair you have to start from scratch.


4. Focus On The Hairline

Clients usually want to look bright and blonde at the money piece, so Jill likes to start in the front to focus her detailing at the hairline and ensure brightness around the face. Here’s how she does it:


  • First, take a skinnylight weave on a diagonal at the hairline, place a foil behind and apply lightener. Make sure to leave out any previously lightened ends.


  • Follow that with another foil right behind for a skinny money piece. 


  • Continue taking diagonal sections at the hairline and weave out hair in between each foil for depth.


Pro Tip: If you have trouble with dark spots when weaving, make sure you’re picking up hair from the front and back of a section to help connect the foils and eliminate dark spots in between.


5. Skinnylights Vs. Babylights

So, what’s the difference between skinnylights and babylights? A babylight is a super skinny weave which creates a diffused look, while a skinnylight is a thicker weave for more visible depth and dimension. 


Tap The Beaker For The Formulas!

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  • Prep Treatment

    Joico Defy Damage ProSeries 1

  • Formula A

    Joico Blonde Life Crème Lightener + 20-volume Joico LumiShine Developer

  • Formula B

    Blonde Life Crème Lightener + 30-volume LumiShine Developer

  • Formula C

    Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 6SB + 7N + 5-volume LumiShine Developer

  • Formula D

    LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 10V + a cap 9N + 5-volume LumiShine Developer

  • Post Treatment

    Joico Defy Damage ProSeries 2


6. Work With Control

If you’ve noticed spots in your foils or that your work isn’t clean, you might be taking too large of a section. Jill advises to never take a section that’s too wide for you to control, especially when you don’t have an assistant working behind you to ensure each foil is secure. Working clean and with control helps you save time and work more efficiently.


7. Be Careful Using Slices

Jill prefers a feathered look at the back of the head, so she alternates between taking diagonal and horizontal slices when foiling. Something to watch out for when deciding where to place your horizontal sections is the round of the head.


Placing a square shape over a round surface creates a harsh line, which makes extra work for you when toning to soften it out. So always be aware of the client’s head shape at all times to avoid unnecessary stress and time trying to fix an avoidable mistake.


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