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Articles > Hair Color > How To Stop Over-Foiling Blondes
May 4, 2022

How To Stop Over-Foiling Blondes

@the_blondologist blonde paint sectioning leave depth maximum impact
close formula
Photo Credit: Instagram via @the_blondologist

4 Smart Foil Hacks For Bright Dimension

Picture this: You just packed a TON of foils to lift a client’s hair bright and beyond. You go to blow-dry the finished look and the brightness has disappeared—what happened?! Most likely, over-foiling is the problem. That’s why we tapped blonding expert Ashley Lewis—aka @the_blondologist on IG—to share her pro placement tips to achieve the BEST blonde results with less foils.

 

From the consultation to the final gloss, keep scrollin’ for every trick you need to achieve high-impact blondes that are also low-maintenance. 

 

1. Placement Hack: Less Foils, More Impact!

You don’t need 100 foils to achieve a bright blonde result—what you need is strategic placement. The secret to foiling for maximum impact is simple: Build brightness where it counts! Before you even TOUCH a foil, determine the desired end goal, and create a visual map that will guide you through the service.

 

Determine the TYPE of blonde a client wants👇

Ashley always asks this key question during a consultation: “Do you want to see your blonde gradually get lighter OR do you prefer a bold POP with dimension backing it?”

 

Check Out Both Foil Patterns

(Plus, scroll for a breakdown of each method!)

@the_blondologist foil patterns gradient or vertical foils
Photo Credit: Instagram via @the_blondologist

 

Gradient

  • Subtle change in tone
  • True blending with no dimension at the roots
  • Visual example: “Think like a waterfall!” says Ashley.

 

Vertical 

  • Bold highlight with a ribbon effect
  • Creates depth between, behind or underneath lightener to build a shadow for the brightness to pop
  • Visual example: “Think like a column!” says Ashley.

 

Tap to try Ashley’s secret to formulating blondes that POP: tbh – true beautiful honest hair color!

 

2. Foilayage: Do This To Build A Bright Blend  

You have a visual map, now it’s time to get to the application work. The No.1 reason Ashley uses foilayage? This technique creates the low-maintenance effect of balayage BUT with brighter, more high-contrast results. Here’s how she layers foils to paint with purpose

 

  • Ashley’s technique requires layered foils to create a V-shape
    • Chunky weaves on the first and last set of foils 
    • Traditional foils in the middle 
    • Tip-out foils in between for bright ends

 

  • Here’s why: Think of it like a sandwich! The “bread” is Ashley’s chunky-weaved foils (on top and underneath) and everything between is normal foilayage/tip-outs.

 

@the_blondologist foil patterns blonde map teasylights baby lights gloss shadow root
Photo Credit: Instagram via @the_blondologist

 

Next Step: Root Shadow + Tone

After foiling, Ashley uses tbh – true beautiful honest Permanent Color by Schwarzkopf Professional to root shadow (with a bit of gray blending) and gloss. She adds tbh – true beautiful honest Tone Softener to her toning formula to shift tbh into a demi-permanent gloss and prevent harsh lines. 

 

Color Formulas 

  • Root Shadow: Schwarzkopf Professional tbh – true beautiful honest 7-04N + 6-51C + IGORA VIBRANCE® Activator Lotion 1.9%
  • Gloss: tbh – true beautiful honest 10-51C + 10-19C + tbh – true beautiful honest Tone Softener

 

Watch the technique from start to finish! 

 
 
 
 
 
View this post on Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Ashley Lewis/VA Stylist⚡️ (@the_blondologist)

 

3. Place Depth To Create A Bright POP! 

High-impact blonding requires creating bold pops, says Ashley. First, examine where the hair naturally moves and falls. Then, create brightness where you will get the most impact—aka where the client sees their hair. 

 

 
 
 
 
 
View this post on Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Ashley Lewis/VA Stylist⚡️ (@the_blondologist)

 

Here’s An Example

For the client below, Ashley used chunky weaves to leave depth and create bright blonde ribbons. This is her go-to technique for gray blending during foil services. Because tbh is formulated with 50 percent less ammonia than average permanent color, it has a translucent deposit. This means Ashley can still achieve 100 percent gray coverage without sacrificing the hair’s natural highs and lows.

 

 
 
 
 
 
View this post on Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Ashley Lewis/VA Stylist⚡️ (@the_blondologist)

 

Pro Tip: Use This Magic Eraser Trick!

We love this quick cheat for “erasing” mistakes or cleaning up lines. Ashley keeps a CLEAN brush nearby to act as a magic eraser—genius! Watch how it’s done below.  

 

 
 
 
 
 
View this post on Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Ashley Lewis/VA Stylist⚡️ (@the_blondologist)

 

Learn from Ashley IN-PERSON! Check out Blondes vs. Brunettes Tour classes coming to a city near you.

 

4. Shadow Blonde: Try These Color Formulas

“I gloss to seal the cuticle and to naturally enhance—never to correct,” says Ashley. “I’m a big believer in creating the blend in the foil and to paint as if glossing never existed.” That’s why Ashley tones with tbh – true beautiful honest to neutralize and create natural tones.

 

So, why use permanent color to tone? Remember: By adding tbh – true beautiful honest Tone Softener, this shifts the color formula into a demi-permanent gloss and changes the consistency, making it easy to melt. Check out this “color mullet” Ashley created below! 

 

  • Placement Strategy: Foils in the front with Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Vario Blonde Lightener and paint with BLONDME® Clay Lightener in the back

 

@the_blondologist blonde paint sectioning leave depth maximum impact
Photo Credit: Instagram via @the_blondologist

 

  • Root Shadow: Schwarzkopf Professional tbh – true beautiful honest 7-04N + 8-51C + 7-16C + IGORA VIBRANCE® Activator Lotion 1.9%

 

  • Gloss: tbh – true beautiful honest Color 9-16C + 9-04N + tbh – true beautiful honest Tone Softener

 

The result? A blended shadow blonde with natural depth!

@the_blondologist shadow balayage foils blonde tbh true beautiful honest schwarzkopf professional
Photo Credit: Instagram via @the_blondologist

 

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