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How-Tos > Subtle Sombré
January 15, 2015

Subtle Sombré

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Formula A (lightening):

BES Non-Ammonia Cream Lightener + 30-volume developer 1:2

Formula B (retouch):

BES Regal Zero Non-Ammonia Permanent Color 30g 3.0 + 30g 4.0 + 60g + 10-volume developer

Formula C (midshafts and ends):

BES Regal Zero 40g 5.0 + 10g 6.38 + 75g + 10-volume develolper

Formula D (balayage):

BES Decobes Mela White Powder Lightener 30g + 40-volume developer

Formula E:

BES Emulsion D 2.5ph

Formula F (toner):

BES Soft Color Non-Ammonia Demi-Permanent Color equal parts 8.0 + 6.0 + double #2 developer

Subtle Sombré

The deep, chestnut brunette is infused with tones of warm caramel to give a multidimensional effect. Tracy Vasquez, owner and stylist at Scotch Bonnet Hair Studio wanted to create a natural-looking color that doesn’t require a lot of maintenance. “I started with the haircut before applying my balayage so I could see the shape I wanted to highlight,” notes Tracy.  “I also razor cut the layers to give the overall look a little bit of softness and texture.” Here’s her custom blend!

 

Starting Level: 1.5-inch regrowth on a natural Level 4 Color on midlengths and ends: Faded out Level 4-5 mahogany with red-violet undertones

Colorist: Tracy Vasquez
Manufacturer: BES

COLOR FORMULAS

Formula A (lightening):

BES Non-Ammonia Cream Lightener + 30-volume developer 1:2

Formula B (retouch):

BES Regal Zero Non-Ammonia Permanent Color 30g 3.0 + 30g 4.0 + 60g + 10-volume developer

Formula C (midshafts and ends):

BES Regal Zero 40g 5.0 + 10g 6.38 + 75g + 10-volume develolper

Formula D (balayage):

BES Decobes Mela White Powder Lightener 30g + 40-volume developer

Formula E:

BES Emulsion D 2.5ph

Formula F (toner):

BES Soft Color Non-Ammonia Demi-Permanent Color equal parts 8.0 + 6.0 + double #2 developer

HOW-TO STEPS

Formula A (lightening):

BES Non-Ammonia Cream Lightener + 30-volume developer 1:2

Formula B (retouch):

BES Regal Zero Non-Ammonia Permanent Color 30g 3.0 + 30g 4.0 + 60g + 10-volume developer

Formula C (midshafts and ends):

BES Regal Zero 40g 5.0 + 10g 6.38 + 75g + 10-volume develolper

Formula D (balayage):

BES Decobes Mela White Powder Lightener 30g + 40-volume developer

Formula E:

BES Emulsion D 2.5ph

Formula F (toner):

BES Soft Color Non-Ammonia Demi-Permanent Color equal parts 8.0 + 6.0 + double #2 developer

1

Pre-section the hair into ½-inch sections to make application easier and faster. Starting at the nape and working up to the crown (be careful not to overlap onto the virgin hair on the first 1-inch at the scalp). Then starting above the ear and working to the top of the head, apply Formula A. Once the back section is complete, go back and increase the volume of developer to 35. Lift the hair to a Level 7 to shed the red-violet undertones, but not past orange/gold.

Formula A (lightening):

BES Non-Ammonia Cream Lightener + 30-volume developer 1:2

Formula B (retouch):

BES Regal Zero Non-Ammonia Permanent Color 30g 3.0 + 30g 4.0 + 60g + 10-volume developer

Formula C (midshafts and ends):

BES Regal Zero 40g 5.0 + 10g 6.38 + 75g + 10-volume develolper

Formula D (balayage):

BES Decobes Mela White Powder Lightener 30g + 40-volume developer

Formula E:

BES Emulsion D 2.5ph

Formula F (toner):

BES Soft Color Non-Ammonia Demi-Permanent Color equal parts 8.0 + 6.0 + double #2 developer

2

On damp hair, apply Formula B to touch-up the regrowth on the first 2 to 3 inches on top, dragging out a little further underneath to 4 to 5 inches. Then apply Formula B, overlapping the application where the colors ends to seamlessly blend the two colors. *Note: Regal Zero can be used with equal color:developer or 1:1.5 developer (to increase reflection and minimize pigment). Process the color for 45 minutes, the rinse and shampoo with Purely Perfect Hair Cleansing Creme.

Formula A (lightening):

BES Non-Ammonia Cream Lightener + 30-volume developer 1:2

Formula B (retouch):

BES Regal Zero Non-Ammonia Permanent Color 30g 3.0 + 30g 4.0 + 60g + 10-volume developer

Formula C (midshafts and ends):

BES Regal Zero 40g 5.0 + 10g 6.38 + 75g + 10-volume develolper

Formula D (balayage):

BES Decobes Mela White Powder Lightener 30g + 40-volume developer

Formula E:

BES Emulsion D 2.5ph

Formula F (toner):

BES Soft Color Non-Ammonia Demi-Permanent Color equal parts 8.0 + 6.0 + double #2 developer

3

Using Formula D, apply your balayage highlights. Note: When hairpainting and using plastic wrap to protect each section, have a bowl of conditioner next to you and before you cover each section with plastic wrap, swipe a little conditioner just at the top, so as not to interfere with the lightener, to give the plastic wrap something more to stick to and stay in place. Process to a Level 8-9 gold, the rinse and apply Formula E. Then rinse and shampoo with Purely Perfect Hair Cleansing Crème.

Formula A (lightening):

BES Non-Ammonia Cream Lightener + 30-volume developer 1:2

Formula B (retouch):

BES Regal Zero Non-Ammonia Permanent Color 30g 3.0 + 30g 4.0 + 60g + 10-volume developer

Formula C (midshafts and ends):

BES Regal Zero 40g 5.0 + 10g 6.38 + 75g + 10-volume develolper

Formula D (balayage):

BES Decobes Mela White Powder Lightener 30g + 40-volume developer

Formula E:

BES Emulsion D 2.5ph

Formula F (toner):

BES Soft Color Non-Ammonia Demi-Permanent Color equal parts 8.0 + 6.0 + double #2 developer

4

Tone the hair with Formula F and process for about 15 minutes. Rinse and condition the hair with Purely Perfect Hair Cleansing Creme.