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How-Tos > The New Caramel
February 24, 2013

The New Caramel

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The New Caramel

BTC EXCLUSIVE! Cutler colorist David Stanko reveals a look he calls “The New Caramel” by creating strategically placed burnt-caramel highlights that add brightness and dimension to brunettes. Plus, he shares an easy technique for diffusing the line of demarcation to add natural softness to the highlights. David created this look exclusively for 2013 Redken Symposium class Lifestyle Coloring.


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HOW-TO STEPS

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    1

    Natural Level:  2 dark brown / coarse texture

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    2

    Customized HIGHLIGHTS
    1 scoop Up to 7
    1 oz. 10 vol. Pro-oxide Cream Developer

    Final glaze – Shades EQ Gloss
    1 oz. 09N Café au Lait Shades EQ Gloss
    1 oz. Shades EQ Gloss CLEAR/ 000
    2 oz. Shades EQ  Processing Solution

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    3

    Observe the design of the hairstyle and create a plan to place only a few (up to 10 foils).

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    4

    Isolate medium “lasagna” sized strands; comb through once, to “open & flatten” the strand and not pinch the hair.  Place on the foil, and paint with lightener (Up to 7 with 10 vol. Pro-oxide Cream Developer).

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    5

    To soften the line of demarcation, use a gloved finger to smooth lightener away from the edge of the foil. Spreading it out like this will create a light coating of product which dries out faster, hence creating a softness and not a “fresh-to-the-root” strand.

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    Repeat the observation on the opposite side and be careful to not over highlight.

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    Create an inverted “V” shape, to follow the head shape, and place about 5 foils using a light touch or “spaghetti-like” sized isolations. Leave plenty of un-highlighted hair between foils.

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    Check the front section. If done properly, you can catch the strand in its brown stage, before excessive auburn is revealed. Rinse, shampoo and power-dry the hair.

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    9

    Apply a demi-permanent color on zone 1 (root); then immediately extend onto zones 2 & 3. Here, equal parts of Shades EQ Gloss 09N + Crystal Clear is mixed equally with Processing Solution and allowed to process for 20 min at room temperature.