HOW-TO STEPS

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  Take a profile parting from the center forehead to the center nape. Place diagonal forward sections from above the occipital to the top of the ear.

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  Take a center vertical section and comb to 90 degrees. While elevating the hair at 90 degrees, cut the line decreasing in length towards the hairline.

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  Continue working vertical sections with the same distribution and elevation toward the hairline, and overdirect the last section to the previous.

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  From below the crown to mid-recession place a horizontal horseshoe parting. Distribute the hair at the natural fall and elevate to 45 degrees, point-cutting the hair below the occipital around to the front hairline, parallel to parting. Repeat on opposite side.

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  The line is crossed checked for balance before continuing on.

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  The next horseshoe is from the crown to the high recession. Comb the hair at the natural fall, elevate to 45 degrees and point-cut on to the guide.

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  Divide the remaining hair with a profile parting. Comb the hair at the natural fall and elevate to 45 degrees from the head shape, and point-cut onto the guide.

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  From the center profile, comb two diagonal forward partings to the low recession. Comb the hair at the natural fall and elevate to 1 fingers depth and start from the center out to the corners, point-cutting an irregular broken line.

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  Style the shape using a flat brush to control the texture.

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  Personalize with deep parallel point-cutting for softness and irregular aggressive point-cutting for separation.

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  Color Formulas
  Dark (Root Shade – Midnight Sandstone): TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 4/88 + 8.5-volume developer
  Medium (Caramel Brown): TIGI® copyright©olour™ mix master 1/2 /00 + 1/4 /1 + 30-volume developer
  Light (Iridescent): TIGI® copyright©olour™ true light white + 8.5-volume developer toned with TIGI® copyright©olour™ gloss 7/2 + 5-volume developer

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  Begin technique by applying the root shade; take a profile and radial section creating 4 sections. Apply root shade to the profile, radial and hairline. Then take ¼-inch subsections and apply the root shade to each section until complete.

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  Starting in the back, take a curved parting from the top of the ear to the profile. Repeat parting on the opposite side. Then color block the entire section.

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  Isolate underneath with a meche.

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  Section out the fringe area from the frontal bone to the recession area on both sides.

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  Use a single fold meche and isolate the fringe.

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  Moving to the sides, start with a diagonal back and take a zig zag parting approximately 1 to 2 inches from the hairline, depending on hair density.

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  Take a diagonal back slice off your zig zag parting approximately ¼ to ½-inch in width. Apply the lightest tone to the midlength and hair ends and feather into the root shade. A single fold meche is used.

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  Next take a diagonal forward slice off your zig zag parting and section away.

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  Then take a diagonal back slice and apply the lightest tone, same as the first section.

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  Now the diagonal forward slice sectioned away is dropped down, overlapping the first two slices and the medium color is applied. The color pattern for the first row is the medium shade overlapping the lightest tone.

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  Take a second zig zag parting above the first and repeat the same technique, but alternate the color pattern, with the lightest tone overlapping the medium shade.

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  Continue with one more zig zag parting above the second, alternating colors and pattern. The remaining hair is dropped out and the root shade color is combed through to blend.

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  Repeat technique on the opposite side.

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  Who did it
  Cut: Zak Mascolo, Austin Finley, Joseph Marzioli
  Haircolor: Jared Smith, Laura Pease, Samantha Finley
  Styling: Caroline Mascolo
  Makeup: Tommy Gomez
  Photography: Alex Barron-Hough 

   On Paper Keyword: toniguy

  TONI&GUY 2014: Back to Business, Back to Education, Back to Design!

  A personal invitation from Bruno Mascolo!

  For more information, visit www.toniguy.edu/franchising.

  Want to learn how to create these looks? Purchase the DIVERT Collection DVD and technical manual in the BTC Bookstore!

  More How-Tos
  Asymmetrical Bob from TONI&GUY
  Naturally Curly Cut How-To
  Platinum Fringe