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How-Tos > Caramel Contour
June 1, 2018

Caramel Contour

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  • Formula A

    Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

  • Formula B

    1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

  • Formula C

    1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

  • Formula D (gloss)

    2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Caramel Contour

Problem: Your client has grown-out, brassy balayage on fine, limp hair. Solution: Contour her face with lightness and rich caramel lowlights to create the illusion of thicker hair and enhance her complexion! Keep scrolling to see how Joico Guest Artist Zoe Carpenter (@zoequeenofblonde) uses new warm tones in Joico’s DD Dimensional Deposit Demi-Permanent Crème Color line to bring illuminating balance to her client’s locks.

Colorist: Zoe Carpenter
Manufacturer: Joico, @joico

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Formula A

    Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

  • Formula B

    1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

  • Formula C

    1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

  • Formula D (gloss)

    2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

Products Used

VIDEO

HOW-TO STEPS

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    1

    Before

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    2

    Part the hair into quadrants: two from the center of the ear forward and two behind, working off a center part to the nape.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    3

    Apply Formula A in a “V” painting method to a diagonal forward vertical slice section just behind the ear.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    4

    Apply Formula B to the inside of the “V” to add depth and dimension. Be sure to blend the lines out and not create a severe line with the lowlight formula.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    5

    Repeat the process for three to four slice partings until you reach just above the ear, working with diagonal vertical partings and Formulas A and B.

     

    Pro Tip: For easier application on long hair, use Joico Artistry Foils. These large, 7×14 foils make it easier apply multiple formulas to long hair.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    6

    Repeat the process on the opposite side for a total of four to five slice partings.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    7

    Continue working upward in the same section. In the red foils, apply Formula B from scalp to ends. To create more texture and dimension, leave some ends out on the lowlights.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    8

    Using your creative eye, determine where to apply lightness with Formula A (in foils) to balance the design, blurring the line of demarcation on grown-out balayage.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    9

    Keep working upward in various diagonal partings, alternating Formulas A and B. These varying diagonal partings will ensure the color is well-blended and will erase any prior lines of demarcation. Continue taking micro-slices until the back sections are complete.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    10

    Next, working in the front, take a fine diagonal forward slice parting and apply Formula A to the pieces that frame the face. These are called skinlights—get the technique here!

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    11

    Begin the contouring lowlights by applying Formula C behind the face-frame from scalp to ends.

     

    Pro Tip: Remember to flick the ends out of some foil to create sombré pieces.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    12

    Continue working in the front section with Formulas A and C to add depth and light. Keep partings angular with fine slices.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    13

    Repeat on the opposite side.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    14

    Completed foiling.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    15

    Process for 35 minutes, then shampoo with Joico K-PAK Color Therapy. Towel-dry the hair with two towels by squeezing, not shaking. Apply Formula D from scalp to ends with a bottle applicator, process for 15 minutes, then shampoo and condition with K-PAK Color Therapy. For an added boost of shine, apply K-PAK Color Therapy Luster Lock Instant Shine & Repair Treatment or K-PAK Color Therapy Multi-Perfector Protect & Shine Spray.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    16

    Finished look.

    • Formula A

      Joico Vero K-PAK Crème Lightener + 5-Volume Joico LumiShine Developer

    • Formula B

      1 oz. Joico LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + 1 oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NG + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula C

      1 ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 9NG + ½ oz. LumiShine DD Crème 6NWB + 2 oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    • Formula D (gloss)

      2 oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NG + ½ oz. LumiShine Demi Liquid 10NC + 2 ½ oz. 5-Volume LumiShine Developer

    17

    Finished look, alternate style.

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