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How-Tos > MEMBERS ONLY: Cool Crop with Contrasting Color from L’ANZA
October 11, 2011

MEMBERS ONLY: Cool Crop with Contrasting Color from L’ANZA

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MEMBERS ONLY: Cool Crop with Contrasting Color from L’ANZA

“Tomboy Chic” is cool, full of contrast and cropped to perfection. This how-to will capture the essence of your client’s confidence. Let’s start with the color and then finish up with the cut. Ready to create a rockin’ look?

 

HOW-TO STEPS

  • 1

    Before the tomboy transformation.

  • 2

    Gray: Demi permanent formula
    10g 8AX + 10g 9A + 40g demi cream developer

    Black: Demi permanent formula
    10g 1N + 20g Demi Cream Developer

     

  • 3

    Create three small triangular partings on the top of the head.
    A. The first is above the right eye (on the part line) about 1½” from the hairline.
    B. The second is above the left eye (opposite the part) about ½” from the hairline.
    C. The third is about 1” behind and between the two previous triangles.

  • 4

    Tie each of the other three sections into a ponytail, winding the elastic band downward about ½” inch.

    Apply the gray formula to the bottom 2/3 of the ponytail, using the edge of your color brush to create a diffused line. As you approach the elastic, do not separate or saturate the hair. This will help diffuse the color into the base color.

    Apply the black formula to the bottom 1/3 of the ponytail (over the gray formula), using the edge of your color brush to create a diffused line. Wrap strand in foil.

    Repeat for each ponytail.

    Process for 5 minutes and rinse each ponytail.

    Cut out elastic bands with shears or razor.

  • 5

    Starting at the nape and working through Zones 1 and 2, use scissor-over-comb creating a square shape.

  • 6

    In Zone 3 (above the parietal ridge), direct sections outward to the sides of the head and connect to the hair in Zone 2 (at the squarest part of the head), you establish a weight line.

  • 7

    At the crown, bring your section straight up, with an aggressive carving motion, creating peaks and valleys.

  • 8

    Over-direct sections at the front toward the high point of the head to maintain length.

  • 9

    For the fringe, take a 1” triangular section over the eye (with point at the part). Be sure to check growth pattern to ensure hair will lay in the appropriate direction. Cut your triangular section close to the hairline to open the area above the eye. Use your discretion regarding placement of the line – consider face shape, hairline, etc. Chip into the fringe to create a strong, shattered line.

  • 10

    With the remaining length in the front, over-direct toward the undercut section. Cut to create a teardrop shape from shorter to longer. Carve into the perimeter of the fringe to remove the desired amount of weight.

  • 11

    Mist damp hair with Healing Volume Daily Thickening Treatment. Blow dry with fingers or brush. Mix a small amount of Refine Styling Pomade and Molding Paste together in hands; run hands through dry hair to create separation and direction. For a more dramatic style, blow dry hair as noted above. Mist dry hair with Beach Spray and blow dry up and away from the scamp. Mist with Design F/X to lock style into place.

  • 12

    The final look.