How-To: Dimensional Curls
CHI Blondest Blonde Ionic Cream Lightener + 40-volume developer + 1/16 oz. Olaplex No.1
CHI Blondest Blonde Ionic Cream Lightener + 20-volume developer + 1/16 oz. Olaplex No.1
Redken Shades EQ equal parts 9NB and 7P
Redken Shades EQ equal parts 9V and Crystal Clear
Is there anything more satisfying than a gorgeous, dimensional, naturally-kissed-by-the-sun head of curls? We don’t think so! Especially after seeing these rooty blonde balayage curls from Kesli Johnson (@kesliann), owner of Grow Salon in Seattle.
“This was the very first time in 15 years doing this client that she said, ‘You can just do whatever you want…even with the length,’” says Kesli. “She never lets me do what I want when it comes to the length—she is always ‘growing it out.’ I’m not sure what made her say that on that particular day, but I jumped at the chance to dry-cut and sculpt her hair.” Here’s what Kesli did with that creative freedom!
Natural/Starting Level: 6 ash
Formula B: CHI Blondest Blonde Ionic Cream Lightener + 40-volume developer + 1/16 oz. Olaplex No.1
Formula C: CHI Blondest Blonde Ionic Cream Lightener + 20-volume developer + 1/16 oz. Olaplex No.1
Formula D: Redken Shades EQ equal parts 9NB and 7P
Formula E: Redken Shades EQ equal parts 9V and Crystal Clear
1. Start by foiling babylights around the face using Formula A.
2. Next, work around the head, and apply Formula B, alternating slices with heavy weaves on the top and sides of the head only. “I decided to leave the back her natural color for contrast and depth,” says Kesli.
3. After completing the foil application, hand-paint Formula C on random chunks of hair that were left out of the foils. Paint about midshaft down.
4. Process for 10 minutes, then smudge the bleach (on the random pieces) up the hair shaft about 1 inch more.
5. Process under the dryer for 15 to 20 minutes.
6. Rinse thoroughly, and apply Olaplex No.2 for 5 minutes, then lightly rinse.
7. Gently towel-dry the hair, and starting at the crown in the root area only, apply Formula D. Process for 7 minutes, then apply Formula E to the midlengths and pull through to the ends. Process for 5 minutes only, then rinse.
8. Shampoo with Kevin Murphy RE.STORE Cleansing conditioning treatment, and condition with Kevin Murphy HYDRATE-ME.MASQUE.
9. To style the wet hair, use only your fingers with product and no combs. First, apply five pumps of Davines Essential Oi OiI, then Davines This Is An Oil Non Oil and Davines This Is A Medium Hold Modeling Gel in equal parts.
10. Set under the dryer on high heat for about 15 minutes.
11. When the hair is about 75 percent dry, gently massage the roots with your fingertips to lift the curls and sculpt the shape.
Prior to the coloring service, Kesli dry-cut her client’s hair using only her fingers as a comb and her shears. “I started in the back, sectioning the hair and creating the shape I wanted to see,” says Kesli. “I moved around to the front, then the top and the sides. I wanted to leave the length slightly longer in the front, and I randomly removed curls to create separation and movement in her hair. It’s all about removing hair in all the right places for curly girls so that the hair can move more freely within the style.”