Formulating Reds? Do This To Avoid Muddy Tones

5 Tips To Get The Red Shade Your Client Desires

Any colorist knows that formulating reds isn’t easy. A huge issue a lot of beginner (and even veteran) stylists run into is getting a muddy result, which can be caused by a few different formula mistakes. So we asked BTC Team Member Kelley Brandon (@kelleyscanvas) and Visual Editor Megan Schipani (@shmeggsandbaconn) how they achieve flawless, insta-worthy red tones that always get a double tap.

CLICK HERE to learn more about the Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA ROYAL collection Kelley used!

Alternate Formulas & Developers

Want to know the biggest mistake stylists make when formulating reds, besides muddy hues? It’s only using one formula for the entire head. Megan recommends avoiding one dimensional hair by “formulating the base a level darker or adding a small amount of a neutral or ash into the base to give it a deeper tone.”

Another tip: Lower the developer at the roots, because the heat from the scalp will naturally accelerate the process.

Check Out This Gorgeous Transformation Kelley Did!  Tap The Beaker For The Formulas!

• Formula A (Base)

  Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA ROYAL 7-77 + 30-volume developer

• Formula B (Roots)

  IGORA ROYAL 7-77 + 20-volume developer

• Formula C (Balayage Highlights)

  Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener 7+ + 20-volume developer

• Formula D (Toner)

  Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA VIBRANCE® 7-77 + Clear + 6-volume developer

Instagram via @kelleyscanvas

Keep Underlying Pigments In The Hair

“To achieve warmer reds I believe in keeping the underlying pigments in the hair,” says Kelley. “If you lift past these, you are removing the underlying warmth needed to achieve a warm red.”

Megan adds that it’s important to also remember how the underlying pigments will show up after the hair is lifted when formulating. “For example, say you are working with a Level 5 and want a cool Level 7 red. Remember that when lifting to a seven, you are working with underlying orange tones,” she says.

“So when you formulate, chose a red with a blue or violet base, like Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA VIBRANCE® or ROYAL 7-88 mixed with a little 0-99 violet additive. Or, you can utilize the additives in IGORA ROYAL, 0-22 and 0-11, which are anti-orange and anti-yellow.”

Love This Pumpkin-Inspired Hue From Megan? Grab The Steps Here!

• Formula A (regrowth):

  Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+ + 7-volume developer

   

• Formula B (money piece):

  Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA ROYAL Permanent Color Creme 9.5-17 + 7-volume developer

   

• Formula C (midlengths & ends):

  IGORA ROYAL Permanent Color Creme 7-77 + 7-volume developer

   

• Formula D (toner):

  IGORA ROYAL Permanent Color Creme 7-77 + 0-00 + 0-55 + Schwarzkopf Profressiona; IGORA ColorWorx Orange + 7-volume developer

   

• Formula E:

  Schwarzkopf Professional Chroma ID Bonding Color Mask Orange

Add Gold To The Formula

To avoid getting a muddy finish, Kelley recommends adding gold to the formula. “In my final glaze I add a bit of yellow [pigment] to give a warmer, reflective hue.”

Cool Down Red With Violet

Wondering how to achieve a deep, cool red hue? Try this! “I like to use a bit of violet in my cool red formulas,” Kelley remarks. When in doubt, remember to always reference the color wheel.

Avoid Adding Too Much Neutral

Did you know too much neutral can ruin your reds? Megan says that it might not look that way at first, but if the hair quickly fades to a brownish tone then there wasn’t enough red in your formula. 

Same Client, New Look! Tap The Beaker For The Formulas & Click Here For The Steps!

• Formula A (Pre-lightened Face Frame)

  Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Clay Lightener 7+ + 20-volume developer

• Formula B (Roots)

  Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA ROYAL 7-77 + 20-volume developer

• Formula C (Base)

  Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA VIBRANCE® 7-77 + 20-volume developer

• Formula D (Face Frame)

  IGORA ROYAL 8-77 + 10-volume developer

Instagram via @kelleyscanvas