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How-Tos > Copper Plum Disconnection from Wella Professionals
April 1, 2014

Copper Plum Disconnection from Wella Professionals

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open color formula
close formula
  • Formula A

    Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

  • Formula C

    Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

  • Formula D

    Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

  • Formula E

    Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

  • Formula F

    Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

  • Formula G

    Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

  • Formula H

    Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula
open color formula

Copper Plum Disconnection from Wella Professionals

Undercuts and pixies are two of today’s hottest trends, and this cut brings both elements to a chic new level. Add the unique combination of copper and magenta tones, along with a boldly textured and buoyant finished look, and pow! It’s dramalicious, courtesy of Wella Professionals Top Stylists Dmitry Vinokurov and Aleksey Ladnov, using select shades from the new Illumina Color New Naturals Collection.

Artist: Dmitry Vinokurov
Colorist: Aleksey Ladnov
Photographer: Tatiana Rudenko
Makeup Artist: Oksana Beyzags

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Formula A

    Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

  • Formula B

    Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

  • Formula C

    Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

  • Formula D

    Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

  • Formula E

    Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

  • Formula F

    Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

  • Formula G

    Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

  • Formula H

    Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

Products Used

HOW-TO STEPS

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    1

    Section the hair as shown. Note: Wella Color.id was used to thicken the ILLUMINA formulas, allowing them to be placed next to each other without running or bleeding.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    2

    Apply Formula A to root area.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    3

    Apply Formula B to the back section.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    4

    Alternate Formula C, D, E and F through the side section as shown.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    5

    Repeat Step 4 in the remaining sections.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    6

    Process, rinse and gloss the hair with Formula H.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    7

    Section damp hair as shown.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    8

    Crop the back section, cutting from short to long as shown, creating the outline.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    9

    Section off a crown section as shown. Create two subsections at the crown and cut using a twist-and-slice-cut technique.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    10

    Using the previous point as a guide, create pivoting, ¾-inch sections, extending to the front hairline. Twist-and-slice-cut each one.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    11

    Comb the hair. Define a point in the crown area and cut from short to long. Continue in this manner, pivoting off of the original section.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    12

    Create the outline as shown.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    13

    Apply Wella Professionals Velvet Amplifier and Wella Professionals Natural Volume Styling Mousse to damp hair. Distribute evenly from roots to ends and dry the hair.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    14

    Using a conical styler, curl sections that pivot off of the crown.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    15

    Finalize the shape and mist with Wella Professional Stay Essential.

  • open color formula
    close formula
    • Formula A

      Illumina Color equal parts 8/05 + 7/35 + Koleston Perfect 10-volume developer

    • Formula B

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula C

      Koleston Perfect equal parts 12/3 + 12/0 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula D

      Illumina Color 8/43 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula E

      Illumina Color 8/05 + Koleston Perfect 20-volume developer

    • Formula F

      Illumina Color 10/ + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula G

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Koleston Perfect 40-volume developer

    • Formula H

      Illumina Color 10/05 + Color Touch 1.9% Emulsion Developer

    16

    Finished look.

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Dmitry Vinokurov