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Articles > Try This Cut: Modern “Mullet”
January 23, 2018

Try This Cut: Modern “Mullet”

  • Formula A (base)

    Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 3NA + 5NA + 5-volume developer

  • Formula B (highlight)

    Joico VeroLight Lightening Powder + 30-volume developer

  • Formula C (root shadow)

    Joico Color Intensity Black Pearl

  • Formula D (highlight glaze)

    3 parts Joico Color Intensity True Blue + 1 part Color Intensity Mermaid Blue

Don’t let the word “mullet” scare you (or your clients) away! This shape is coming back in a big way. The difference between the mullets of today and Rod Stewart’s ’80s mullet? A super-cool color, longer length in the crown and a tailored shape that fits the client’s features. Keep reading to see how to create this look!

 

We got the breakdown for this modern mullet (pronounce it “moo-lay” if you’re fancy, lol) from Richard Mannah, a global educator who took the stage at Joico’s Global Destination Education in Punta Cana, where 1,000 hairdressers representing 28 countries came together for education, inspiration, and of course…a couple parties! Richard walked us through not only how to create this look, but also how to discuss a look like this with your clients.

 

Products Used

 

 

First thing’s first: Be open to change, and your clients will be too.

“I’ve had clients come to me from other salons, and the first question I’ll ask is, ‘Why did you come to see me?’” Richard said. “For 10 percent, it’s because of geographical reasons. For the other 90 percent? ‘My old hairdresser wouldn’t try anything new.’” Moral of the story? Don’t lose clients to your own fear of experimentation and change! “When you try something different on your clients, they’ll attract compliments. Introduce change—change is great!” he added.

 

Close-up of the color before cutting. Color by Ricardo Santiago.

 

Next, give her a stunning haircolor.

Joico artist Ricardo Santiago created this gorgeous deep hue with green-blue accents. Here are his formulas:

 

Formula A (base):

Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 3NA + 5NA + 5-volume developer

 

Formula B (highlight):

Joico VeroLight Lightening Powder + 30-volume developer

 

Formula C (root shadow):

Joico Color Intensity Black Pearl

 

Formula D (highlight glaze):

3 parts Joico Color Intensity True Blue + 1 part Color Intensity Mermaid Blue

 

 

Finally, create a bespoke shape that will earn her tons of compliments.

Richard worked with high elevation to maintain length (again, this is what keeps the shape modern and not 1980s). He also likes to create shapes like this on dry hair so he can see how the final cut will look as he works. Here’s how to create it:

 

1. Take a parting from ear to ear over the top of the head and clip away the front.

 

2. Begin in the back with a center profile guide. Working with high elevation (180 degrees), point-cut short to long on a downward angle. “The steeper the angle, the more length you’ll have through the base,” Richard said.

 

 

3. Work in pivoting sections, elevating to 180 degrees each time.

 

 

4. To create volume, take a section at the crown and back-cut. Doing this creates interior movement, which contributes to volume.

 

5. Move to the front to connect the layers, again using point-cutting and 180-degree elevation with overdirection. Continue taking pivoting sections off the front hairline to connect the layers to the fringe.

 

 

6. To cut the fringe, take a triangle section. Elevate and point-cut.

 

7. Exaggerate the disconnection on the sides as desired using slide-cutting.

 

 

8. For more texture, take sections at the crown. Elevate and twist. Use a back-cutting technique, slightly closing your blade as you pull out, on the twisted section.

 

 

9. Finish with a generous spray of Joico Body Shake to accentuate the texture. Blast the hair with cool air while you work to increase volume.

 

 

Voila!

 

  • Formula A (base)

    Joico LumiShine Demi-Permanent Liquid 3NA + 5NA + 5-volume developer

  • Formula B (highlight)

    Joico VeroLight Lightening Powder + 30-volume developer

  • Formula C (root shadow)

    Joico Color Intensity Black Pearl

  • Formula D (highlight glaze)

    3 parts Joico Color Intensity True Blue + 1 part Color Intensity Mermaid Blue

 

 

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