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Last updated: November 03, 2022

Razor Cutting: 5 Mistakes You Might Be Making

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5 Mistakes You’re Making When Using A Razor

Are your razor cuts resulting in frizzy ends and zero movement? Or maybe you’re just starting to use a razor and can’t figure it out? Don’t worry, Sport Clips National Artistic Director Stacia Kelley (@scissor_ensemble) is here to help. She’s breaking down five common razor-cutting mistakes and how to fix them! Keep scrolling for a full breakdown! 


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Mistake #1: Not having consistent moisture when cutting

We know wet and/or dry cutting depends on preference, but for razor cuts—there’s only one way to go. “Consistent moisture allows the razor to move easily within the subsection,” explains Stacia. This way, the razor doesn’t pull or snag on the hair which can cause uneven lengths. 


Keep hair wet with water or Stacia also suggests a cutting lotion for added moisture.

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Mistake #2: Not paying attention to tension

Tension is extremely important when cutting with a razor, why? “It helps to maintain control over how and where you cut,” Stacia explains. 


“What’s more important is the placement of your fingers,” she adds. “You know how in school they explain not to cut past the second knuckle? It’s not so you don’t cut yourself. It’s actually because the tension starts to slip. So, readjust your fingers and grab the section again to maintain control.” 

“Don’t be afraid to regrab the subsection,” Stacia explains. “Comb the hair smooth and double check the tension before going back in with the razor.”


Mistake #3: Not overdirecting sections 

If your razor cuts are lacking movement, it could be because you’re skipping an important step: Overdirection. “If you want to create backward movement, you have to overdirect the hair forward,” explains Stacia. Here’s a breakdown:


  • Take a vertical section and overdirect the section forward.
  • When cutting, the shorter hair will be in the front of the section (which is what you want!)
  • Remember, short hair pushes long hair. So for clients that want to wear a style that flows back, this type of cut will help with that. 


For clients requesting back flowing style, overdirect the hair forward when cutting.


Mistake #4: Holding the razor perpendicular to the hair 

If you’re noticing the razor isn’t cutting hair but pushing it out of the way, it’s all about the angles. “Not only does it just push the hair down, it actually causes strain on the scalp. Which can be really uncomfortable for a client,” says Stacia. 


Instead, Stacia suggests holding the razor at a 45-degree angle. “Holding the razor at an angle, use a back-and-forth movement towards the scalp (making sure the hair has moisture!) for a nice, smooth cut,” she explains. 




Mistake #5: Not using all parts of the razor 

Find yourself switching out your blade more than you should? It could be because you’re not using the entire blade. “Make sure to use the front, middle and back of the razor before swapping out the blade,” Stacia suggests. This will help avoid pulling or snagging on the hair and swapping out the blade more than you need to!


Slide to check out the before & after!

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