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Last updated: July 12, 2021

9 Foil Tips For A Custom Face Frame

Versatile Mohawk Placement: 9 Tips To Foil Like A Pro

Giving your clients the versatility they want when styling their part, depends on how you foil the face frame. Schwarzkopf Professional and Colorist Eunice Kim (@eunicekimhair) demoed how she customizes the money piece to fit any client with her Mohawk sectioning and foil placement. Want to learn more? Scroll down to grab her nine foiling tips below!


Plus, don’t forget to check out the stunning before and after, and watch the full tutorial above for the entire technique and extra tips!


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1. Section Enough Hair For A Versatile Part

Your clients don’t want to be limited in styling choices when it comes to their haircolor. Make sure your they have room to part their hair in whatever direction they wish, by taking a nice-sized Mohawk section in the front to the crown area. Eunice prefers to leave the sides out for added depth and dimension.


2. Take Thin Slices Instead Of Weaving

If you’re not a fan of weaving, you’re in luck! If you section the hair thin enough, you won’t need to weave for an effortless blend. The slices will automatically melt into the hair for a natural finish.


3. Tease The Hair For Added Contrast

The best way to make highlights pop is to put them up against darker shades. Once the money piece is foiled, Eunice likes to tease the hair as she continues foiling her Mohawk section for added darkness at the root. 


Note: Eunice prefers to start teasing from the mids up for a dramatic contrast, versus doing a small tease an inch or two from the root.


4. Adjust Lightener Placement As You Move Towards The Back

After the money piece is finished, start gradually placing lightener lower and lower from the root area with each foil. This helps add depth to the hair as it transitions from light to dark, plus ensures a soft grow out.


Eunice’s favorite lightener when working with Level 7 and darker hair? Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+ is her go-to for safely lifting her predominately Asian clientele, because it ensures even saturation and includes bond protection for a simpler formula process.


Pro Tip: If the client wants their hair to look more like babylights, place the lightener high to the root when foiling. The finished look will still have a soft grow out. If they want a rooty look, place the lightener two inches lower instead for a nice blend.


Check Out The Before & After!

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(1:2) Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+ + 7-volume developer


5. The Foil Should Fit The Hair To Prevent Slipping

Tension and properly securing foils are two key things you need to keep them from slipping, but your foil size can also factor into the equation. If the foils are too long or too wide, they can easily slide out of the hair. To prevent that, Eunice recommends shaping the foil to fit the hair when closing by folding it in half and over the sides to secure.


6. The Mohawk Section Takes 5 Minutes To Foil

So how long does this technique take when doing a foilayage service? The Mohawk foiling technique can take as little as five to ten minutes, while the entire foilayage service can take an hour and fifteen minutes to foil.


7. Increase The Developer As You Go

Eunice starts with the lowest developer in the back and increases as she moves up the head. The Mohawk section uses the same developer, because it doesn’t take long to foil.


Note: If you’re ever worried about the foils’ processing time, you can always check the foils and wipe away any lightener if they’re done processing.


8. Use Body Heat To Warm Foils

Want a gentler way to process foils without sticking your client under a lamp? Use a towel instead! Simply place a towel over the clients’ head and let their natural body heat warm up the foils for a faster processing time.


9. Here’s How To Price The Service

So how much should you charge for this technique? Eunice typically charges between $450 to $550 for a full foilayage service. She has her clients come back every six to eight weeks for a partial foil along the hairline. Then she charges $250 with an extra $30 added for every excess bowl of lightener used.


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