5 Hairline Hacks To Avoid A Chemical Cut
Bright Blondes Without Breakage? Try These Pro Tips
The face-frame is where our clients want to see the most brightness—but it can also be a fragile *danger zone* for unwanted breakage. That’s why we’re sharing pro tips to keep your client’s hairline thick and hydrated, create bright blondes without damage and how to avoid over-processing.
1. Maintain a thick, healthy hairline with this trick
Do clients complain about having permanent short hairs around their face-frame that will just never grow? Here’s the reality: Fragile hairline hairs can’t handle stressors that will disrupt the growth cycle. That’s why it’s so important to protect fragile hair from chemical damage, stay away from heat and use a gentle lightener.
We absolutely love this video by Rachel Williams (@rachelwstylist) where she shows us how she foils to avoid harming her client’s hairline.
Step 1: Start by combing short hairline hairs onto the forehead along the entire hairline.
PRO TIP: These hairs don’t need to be lightened as often as the rest of the hairline. Rachel suggests foiling them only one to two times a year.
Step 2: Begin foiling directly behind the combed-out section on both sides of the head. (This ensures your hairline is safe from damage WHILE adding brightness!)
PRO TIP: Use a gentle lightener with a low developer to protect the hair from chemical damage. Rachel uses TRUSS Professional Blanc Blond Lightener with 10-volume developer.
Step 3: Ending with your Mohawk section foils, weave these sections as thin as you can for a super-blended look.
Get Rachel’s go-to lightener HERE!
2. Save time & skip the root melt with this placement technique!
Rachel’s money piece placement is going to be your new go-to for lived-in clients. With this technique, there’s no need to add a root shadow step which saves you time and allows you to add more clients to your day.
Step 1: Section the hair using a Mohawk placement.
Step 2: Begin foiling the Mohawk and tease the section to create a soft, diffused result.
Step 3: Then, Rachel takes back-to-back slice sections making sure to tease each before applying lightener.
PRO TIP: Be sure to use your previous foil as a guide for your next foil. By applying right under your last foil, you will create a natural, lived-in look for your client.
Step 4: Repeat this four times and pin the foils off of the face to ensure client comfort.
Here’s how the foils will look when clipped back:
Watch the full tutorial below!
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3. Vary developer levels to maintain hair health
As much as we love a quick partial when blonding, we know blonding appointments can take up half your day sometimes! For your clients with long appointment times, it’s essential to protect the hair by starting with your lowest level of developer first. This will also ensure an even processing time.
Rachel starts foiling at the hairline with TRUSS Professional Blanc Blond Lightener with 15-volume developer, increasing her formula to 20-volume as she works through the rest of the head. For the very last section, Rachel uses 20-to-30-volume.
Check out the end result below!
4. For a bright blonde, do this
Mallory Galusha (@hair_by_mallory) loves creating the bright, buttery blondes that her clients adore. To make sure her blondes maintain brightness at the hairline, she does a back-to-back weave, following the part line as she moves closer to it.
Step 1: Start with a thick chunky weave and foil all over, feathering the lightener up towards the roots.
Step 2: Around the hairline, foil the entire hairline with back-to-back weaves for a natural look with bright pops of blonde.
PRO TIP: Follow the part line with a thick weave as you move closer to it.
Step 3: Tip out the ends with a wet balayage technique.
Step 4: Finish with a root melt, brushing it downward to blend.
Bright Blonde: HOW TO voiceover🔊 step by step using @trussprofessional Blanc Blond lightener👏🏻✨ and blending the root melt with the Mint Kaze paddle brush. #dallashair #dallashairstylist #dfwhairstylist #truss #trussme #trussprofessional #trusshair #blancblond #hairformula #colorformula #moneypiece @behindthechair.com #btcteam #behindthechair #balayage #blondehair @hair_by_mallory
Use a gentle lightener to protect hair. Get yours here!
Catch must-know formulas and blonding techniques on BTC University!