Platinum Retouch: 5 Tips For Lifting Without Breakage
All-over platinum clients need their color retouched every four to six weeks, so how can you achieve that icy blonde without overlapping and breakage? BTC Team Member Zach Mesquit (@platinum_perfection) went live from the BTC House to share everything you need to know about color placement, sectioning and handling sensitive scalps—click HERE to purchase the video playback and get lifetime access! Then, scroll through for some of our fave tips below.

1. Start In The Cool Zone

The face frame is where blonde clients want to see the most brightness, so it’s the most important section to achieve icy platinum and begin application. Zach recommends starting the retouch process at the front hairline—aka “the cool zone”—because there is less hair in the front than the back, so the body will generate the least amount of heat in this area. 

2. Avoid Overlap & Swelling With A Barrier

Zach always applies cotton directly where the line of demarcation meets the prelightened platinum. He only uses 100-percent natural cotton (opposed to synthetic cotton) as a barrier between sections. The cotton absorbs excess bleach and promotes clean application, plus the natural ingredients won’t break apart easily like synthetic fibers.

3. Are You Using A Tool For Precision?

The number one mistake during a platinum retouch? Overlapping bleach on prelightened strands! That’s why Zach works with a brush that has super skinny bristles for extremely precise application.

4. Brush Stroke, Cross-Check & Repeat

• Instead of using a sweeping motion when applying lightener, dab the brush to gently tap the lightener exactly where it needs to be to prevent bleeding or swelling.
• Zach always cross-checks his sections to ensure full saturation, and to check if any spots have dried up so he can determine if he needs to reapply fresh lightener for added lift.

5. Consultation Is Key To Prevent Bleach Irritation

• You don’t want your clients to suffer from itching or burning during their color service. That’s why Zach recommends that clients don’t wash their hair for a few days prior to their appointment—this helps their hair accumulate natural oils that will create a barrier and reduce irritation.
• See if REALLY sensitive clients will take a Benadryl before the process (if their doctor says it’s OK!).

 Peep the platinum-perfect color results below! 

 

A post shared by Zach Mesquit (@platinum_perfection) on Apr 23, 2018 at 7:41pm PDT