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Last updated: February 08, 2022

3 Foil Tips For Creating High Contrast Dimension

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  • Formula A (lightener back sections):
    Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA VARIO BLOND Super Plus Powder Lightener + 20-volume developer

     

    Pro Tip: When working in the front sections, mix 20-volume and 30-volume developer together for an even lift.
  • Formula B (root melt):

    IGORA VIBRANCE®  4-13 + 6-volume IGORA VIBRANCE® Activator Gel 

  • Formula C (glaze mid to ends):

    IGORA VIBRANCE® equal parts 6-46 + 7-1 + 8-47 + 6-volume Activator Gel

 

Foil Education: 3 Tips For Dimensional Highlights 

High-contrast highlights are perfect for darker-haired clients looking to make a statement with their color. But the secret to this dimensional service isn’t what you put in, it’s about what you leave out! Ready to learn more? BTC Team Member Jessica Scott Santo (@jessicascotthair) shared her foil technique on BTC University and we are sharing what you need to know now! 

 

Scroll down for Jessica’s tricks on how to avoid over-foiling, achieving the perfect backcomb and tips for toning! Click here to check out her entire technique and have unlimited access to the course! 

 

 

What We Learned:

You can learn Jessica’s full technique in her 90-minute course, but we’re teasing these tips you need to know now!

 

Tip #1: Keep Sections Flat To Avoid An Uneven Tease 

Avoid over-teasing and an uneven backcomb by keeping sections flat with your index and middle finger instead of pinching the section. “Pinching the section really makes it difficult to achieve a seamless backcomb in one stroke,” Jessica explains. “It can also create a struggle when trying to brush that backcomb out, so holding the section flat will help keep everything even.” 

 

Pro Tip: For clients with finer hair, Jessica sprays a light texture spray onto the section before backcombing to help hold the backcomb in place while applying lightener.

 

Tip #2: Use Diagonal Placement For Interior Depth

To create interior depth, Jessica uses this timesaving placement: Taking horizontal partings and painting her lightener on a diagonal. “When finished, this placement creates these bright pops over the darker areas of the previous section. This really allows you to create pockets of depth without doing too much work,” she shares.

 

Tip #3: Melt Shadow Root Further At The Crown To Maintain Depth

Taking a deep horseshoe section at the crown, Jessica melts the shadow root down further toward the midlengths when working in the back. “Naturally, people are more rooted through that crown area, so I want to keep that natural depth while toning,” she explains. 

 

Slide For The Stunning Before & After

open color formula
close formula
  • Formula A (lightener back sections):
    Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA VARIO BLOND Super Plus Powder Lightener + 20-volume developer

     

    Pro Tip: When working in the front sections, mix 20-volume and 30-volume developer together for an even lift.
  • Formula B (root melt):

    IGORA VIBRANCE®  4-13 + 6-volume IGORA VIBRANCE® Activator Gel 

  • Formula C (glaze mid to ends):

    IGORA VIBRANCE® equal parts 6-46 + 7-1 + 8-47 + 6-volume Activator Gel

 

Have Questions? Jessica Has Answers!

One of the benefits of watching a course on BTC University? Artists are able to answer your questions in REAL TIME! Here are some technical questions viewers had for Jessica during her livestream:

 

Question: When working on clients with a darker starting level, do you prefer to lift lighter and tone down or lift and tone on level? 

Answer: “I usually like to lift on level or tone down. If I have a client requesting a warm honey color (like my model today) but they are stuck in a really brassy Level 6 or 7, toning with a demi-permanent shade is only temporary so those brassy tones will come back. So if you lift them a bit higher, past that brassy area of lift, their color won’t fade back to brass and you can always tone them down.” 

 

Q: How do you maintain depth in the front and avoid being too bright? 

A: “So, I know the goal sometimes is to create a bold money piece, but it is what is behind there that is going to matter. You want to always pair a blonde section next to a darker section, because if it is all too blonde it’s going to all look blended together. So you really want to pay attention to the hair that is being left out of your sections and make sure that it is enough to give you that dimension.” 

 

Click Here To Become A BTC-U Member and Receive Unlimited Access to Jessica’s Course On BTC University!

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Jessica Scott Santo