3 Toning Tips For Muted Metallics & Glossy Pastels

Demi Gloss Tips: Pre-Toning, Color Application & Dimension

Toning is the difference between a redo and a repeat guest—that’s what Colin Caruso (@colincaruso), Artistic Director of Professional Hair Color, shared with every attendee at the JPMS Hawaii Seminar. Are you maximizing the range of your demi-permanent color application to bring out dimension and create on-trend shades? 

If the answer isn’t an easy YES, or you just want to expand your coloring arsenal, scroll through these three toning tips from the JPMS color squad—Colin, Heather Ka’anoi (@h_kaanoi) and Mary Cuomo (@cuomocromeans)—using The Demi Muted Metallic Collection. Then, bring them back to the color bar with you!

But First, Change Your Toning Approach

Don’t rush through toning at the shampoo bowl. “Take the guest back to the color bar, raise the level of expectation and educate them about every step of the process,” says Mary. If you’re going to charge as a full service, continue to change and customize the way you tone. Let it process longer in the back, towel-dry, only apply to regrowth, etc. 

Products Used

Demi-Permanent Color

The Demi Muted Metallic Collection

John Paul Mitchell Systems

Glossing/ Toning

Flash Finish Sheer Rapid Toner

John Paul Mitchell Systems

1. Damp v. Dry Application

Think of where you want to see intensity and softness in the finished result—this will determine when to apply The Demi to damp, towel-dried or dry hair. Consider this:

• Damp or Towel-Dry: Anytime you have water taking up space in the hair shaft, this will dilute the intensity. Use for a softer finish or clients with porosity issues.
• Dry Hair: For maximum intensity and a stronger finish, apply directly to dry hair.
• Shadow Root: Using the same formula, apply The Demi to the base on dry hair and process for up to 20 minutes. As the toner processes on the “dry fabric,” apply that same formula to the more porous ends for a shorter amount of time.

2. Pre-Toning For A Smoky Effect

For clients requesting smoky gray or silver tones, the first step is bringing the prelightened hair to neutral and then making it smoky. Avoid this common mistake: If you apply the smoky color directly over the yellow, the end result will look green.

Colin recommends pre-toning with Paul Mitchell’s Flash Finish Sheer Rapid Toner for five minutes at the shampoo bowl to neutralize before applying The Demi.

3. Same Color Formula = Up To 4 Different Tones

Have total control of depth and dimension by creating up to four different tones with the SAME color formula. That’s right, The Demi Muted Metallics Collection uses timed intensity so you can blend contrasting ribbons of highs and lows. Process some sections for five minutes to achieve a softer finish and up to 20 for a stronger, more muted look.

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