Dear Clients, Going Dark Won’t Make Your Hair Healthy!
Are These Hair Color Myths Damaging Your Client’s Hair?
Picture this: Your blonde client shows up for their appointment a BRUNETTE. Their explanation: “My hair just looked so dull, I wanted to make it healthier.” If you’ve faced this situation behind the chair before, you’re not alone.
Below, we’re debunking two hair color myths about going dark. Plus, tips for transitioning box-dye clients back into healthier, lighter hair.
Hair color myth #1: Going darker will make hair healthier
Fact: Covering bleach blonde hair with a darker shade does not heal the hair.
“If your hair is damaged…it’s damaged,” colorist Ethan King (slickback_buttahtoast) shared in his post. “The results may look healthier and have shine, but the shine will wear off and the color will fade. So the hair will just have to be colored again,” he adds.
When Ethan’s client wanted to cover her platinum with black, he needed to give her options that keep her hair healthy in the future. “I respect her decision to want a Iower maintenance look, but I know that she loves being blonde. I would hate to color her hair black only for her to call me in three weeks begging to be blonde again,” he explained.
So, Ethan opted to color match to her root, giving the regrowth time to grow in, but still keep her blonde. To protect and keep her hair healthy during processing, he used the K18 Hair Professional Molecular Repair Mist before the color application. Why? Ingredients like K18Peptide™ improve the elasticity of the hair, creating a stronger canvas for a color application.
Slide for the before and after
Check out the process in the video below!
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Hair color myth #2: Darker shades are easy to lift through
Fact: Transitioning back to blonde will cost time + money.
“Clients forget that the hair they had before going darker still exists,” explains Miami-based colorist Courtney Robbin-Coker (@cocorobco).
When Courtney’s client came requesting highlights, she noticed the hair was already showing signs of damage. “In this situation, box color was applied over previously lightened hair. Then, she went to a salon for highlights but they were brassy orange, spotty and breaking,” she explained.
Courtney shared her client’s before in her post
Why did this happen? Two main reasons:
- Box hair color is difficult to remove because it is usually paired with high, aggressive developers that can leave hair porous and fragile.
- The darker the starting level, the harder it can be to lift to Level 8 or 9.
So, Courtney performed a strand test to determine what the hair could handle. She discovered two crucial things:
- Her client’s ends lifted FAST and were very fragile.
- The mids barely lifted and had a muddy brown hue.
Here’s a visual of what Courtney found during the strand test!
Courtney knew she wouldn’t be able to achieve the client’s desired look without creating more damage. So, she discussed with the client that getting the hair healthy first would be the best move.
- Step 1: Remove mineral and silicone buildup with a detox shampoo.
- Step 2: Neutralize orange and muddy tones with a gloss application.
- Step 3: Apply K18 Hair Leave-in Molecular Hair Mask to repair previous damage. How? The leave-in formula reconnects broken keratin bonds to strengthen the hair and restore softness in just four minutes!
- Step 4: Cut off dead ends and blend any choppy layers.
- Step 5: Schedule treatment and trim appointments to create a healthy canvas. Then, reschedule the client for highlights.
Courtney shared the client’s appointment in the video below!
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