3 Hand Touch Balayage Tips For Maximum Brightness

Hand Touch Balayage Education: 3 Tips For Achieving Bright Blends

Have you seen videos of colorists painting with their hands on IG and thought, “WHAT is that?!” It’s called hand touch balayage and is a go-to technique for TRUSS Professional Ambassador Mickey Colon Jr (@mickeycolonjr), so we had him break it down on BTC University. Scroll down for a sneak peak at some of the tips Mickey shared, then tap here to become a BTC-U Member and learn the entire technique—which includes a #mickeypinch tutorial!

Takeaway Tips:

You can learn Mickey’s full technique in his 90-minute course, but we’re teasing these tips you need to know now!

Tip #1: Begin Saturating Where You Want Maximum Lift 

To avoid a splotchy balayage and create an even blend, Mickey begins his application where he wants maximum lift, then blends outward. “Your initial lightener placement should be where you want the hair to be the brightest,” he explains. Focusing first on the mid shaft area, Mickey fully saturates the section from mid to ends. Then using his hand, he blends the lightener upward toward the root to create a gradual transition. “You almost want to diffuse the lightener upward, creating an even transition zone,” he explains. 

Pro Tip: Mickey always keeps a clean towel nearby to wipe his hands before blending the product up to avoid applying additional lightener to the section. 

Tip #2: Blend Lines Of Demarcation At The Shampoo Bowl

If you spot a line of demarcation at the shampoo bowl, don’t panic! Mickey shared a quick (finger) fix for blending out at the bowl. Check it out below:

• Grab the leftover lightener and bring it to the shampoo bowl. “I always make sure I have product remaining in the bowl just in case I need to reapply,” Mickey advises.

• Remove the foil and grab a small amount of lightener with the tip of your finger. 

• Gently tap the lightener on the line of demarcation and then work the lightener into the hair so it is blended. 

• Let that process for an extra five minutes and shampoo like normal. 

Pro Tip: When working the lightener into the line of demarcation, Mickey suggests blending two fingers up from the line for a gradual transition.

Tip #3:  Neutralize Warmth With The Right Formulation 

For his root melt formula, Mickey uses equal parts Level 5 and Level 7 semi-permanent color from TRUSS Professional on the client’s existing base. Why not apply a Level 6? “Level 5 color has more of a blue underlying pigment to it than a Level 6. So I am able to cancel out any warmth in her natural tone but still allow the blonde highlights to pop with the Level 7,” he explains. 

Slide For The Stunning Before & After!

• Formula A (lightener)

  1/2 scoop TRUSS Professional Air Libre Bleaching Powder + 1/2 scoop TRUSS Blanc Blond Lightening Powder + 1 scoop TRUSS 8X Powder + 20-volume developer

• Formula B (root melt)

  Equal parts TRUSS Color 5.0 + 7.0 + 9-volume developer

• Formula C (all-over gloss)

  TRUSS Color 1 part 9.31 + 1/2 part 7.7 + 1/4 part 0.03 + 9-volume developer

Have Questions? Mickey Has Answers!

One of the benefits of watching a course on BTC University? Artists are able to answer your questions in REAL TIME! Here are some technical questions viewers had for Mickey during his livestream:

Question: How do you ensure the ends are fully saturated if you are not using a brush for the application?

Answer:  “To achieve full saturation at the ends, I am making sure that I open up the section so that it lays completely flat against my hand. It’s really important not to mush the section all together and wiggle the color in. Just open up the section so it is nice and flat working the lightener into the hair.” 

Q: Would you be able to use the hand touch technique for a reverse balayage service?

A: “Yes! When doing a reverse balayage the one thing to remember is that when you are painting, reverse the saturation. Meaning, I would fully saturate more towards the root and then blend downwards leaving out the very ends. Then, the hair that has been left out using the air touch, should be colored using the darkest desired shade. This will create that dimension and movement.”

Click The Beaker For Mickey’s Formula Breakdown!

• Formula A (lightener)

  1/2 scoop TRUSS Professional Air Libre Bleaching Powder + 1/2 scoop TRUSS Blanc Blond Lightening Powder + 1 scoop TRUSS 8X Powder + 20-volume developer

• Formula B (root melt)

  Equal parts TRUSS Color 5.0 + 7.0 + 9-volume developer

• Formula C (all-over gloss)

  TRUSS Color 1 part 9.31 + 1/2 part 7.7 + 1/4 part 0.03 + 9-volume developer

Products Used

Hair Color

Air Libre Bleaching Powder

TRUSS Professional

Hair Color

Blanc Blond Lightening Powder

TRUSS Professional

Hair Color

8X Powder

TRUSS Professional

Hair Color

TRUSS Color

TRUSS Professional

Ready To Learn It All? BTC-U Members Have Unlimited Access To Mickey’s Entire Course On BTC University—Click Here To Sign Up!