3 Dry-Cutting Techniques For Face-Framing Layers
Mastering The Face Frame: @philipwolffhair’s Dry-Cutting Techniques
The face frame is the money spot where you should be using techniques to customize every haircut—it’s the area your clients see the most in the mirror and their selfies! That’s why it’s good to stay updated on the latest cutting trends, like dry-cutting, and tips for personalizing layers to highlight their best features.
To break down everything you need to know about dry-cutting the face frame, BTC Team Member and LA cutter Philip Wolff (@philipwolff) went live at the BTC House—click HERE to purchase the video playback and get lifetime access! But first, scroll through some of his best tips!
1. Establish The Guide: Where To Place Point A & Point B
- Start by analyzing the client’s face shape, hairline, and hair density before establishing the guide. Then visualize where you want the arc of the face frame to live—use this to determine where Point A (starting point) and Point B (where no length is removed) will be.
- Personalize the cut by slightly adjusting Point A to highlight each client’s best features. Do they have beautiful cheekbones? Start at the chin. Great jawline? Start at the corner of the lip. Begin the conversation with new clients about how they style their hair on an everyday basis.
2. Use This Carve-Cutting Technique
Working from Point A to Point B, connect by slide-cutting to carve out the face frame and follow these three easy guidelines:
- Elevation – Hold the section 5 to 10 degrees off the face.
- Distribution – Maintain natural fall.
- Execution – Comb the hair downward, then carve out the face frame by slide-cutting from Point A to Point B.
3. Here Are 3 Tips For Easier Slide-Cutting & Maintaining Length
- As you carve out face-framing layers, point the direction of the shears toward Point B to carefully carve out the face frame. Philip recommends always cutting with the middle of the blade—this spot is sharper on the shears, and makes it easier to glide through dry hair.
- Philip recommends slightly tilting the client’s head in the opposite direction of the side you’re cutting on to help the hair fall forward for a better free-hand cut.
- Want to avoid removing too much length? Philip aims to keep his shears almost completely parallel to the section he’s slide-cutting. The deeper the angle, the more hair will be removed.
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