WATCH: Cutting Layers + Adding Movement On A Short Bob Cut

So your short-haired client wants a new look, but isn’t willing to venture into pixie mode just yet. No problem. Ulta Beauty Chief Creative Director Nick Stenson took over our Facebook Live to give us an idea for updating an already-short style—and by adding lots of layers and a cool, barely-visible undercut, he was able to create a subtle, yet transformative style. Watch the Facebook Live below and check out some of our favorite tips from Nick!

Ask The Client What Their Goal Is

This cut isn’t for everyone, and creating an undercut might be a big deal for some clients—so the consultation is super important. Is your client’s goal to have swing and movement in their hair? Is it to make their hair look thicker? Their response changes your technique. Always.

• For thicker looks, maintain as much weight in the hair as possible.
• For collapsed looks with movement, remove weight throughout the cut.
• For a look like this, it’s important to explain every step to your client. They need to be on board and understand what kind of look the undercut will create.

Add Movement To A Short Cut

If your short-haired clients feel their cut is too bulky, giving them a small undercut will allow for tons of added movement. Here’s what Nick says:

• Create a section from the occipital bone straight down, and clip the rest of the hair away.
• Then, using a number 2 clipper, remove the hair in this bottom section. This will give your client with thick texture a lot of swing and movement.
• The goal is to flatten out the hair on this part of the head so that when you drop the rest of the hair down over this section it will collapse close to head and be able to move and breathe easily.
• If doing this on someone with finer hair, use a smaller section—bringing it down about another ½ inch from the occipital.

Nick’s Quick Cutting Tips and Styling Secrets

• Keep your client’s head super straight. If they are look down at all it will change the shape of the cut. For this look, Nick was cutting 90 degrees from the head to create and maintain a strong square shape without removing any of the length.
• Thinking about creating this cut with a razor? Here’s what Nick has to say:
  • To create precision or structural lines in the hair, use scissors to create that strength in the cut.
  • To add softness, use a razor to create texture—it will create a softer edge than scissors.
• Have clients who you know like to wash their hair without drying it before going to sleep? Suggest the Matrix Biolage Raw Frizz Control Styling Spray. It helps cut the frizz that happens when sleeping on clean, wet hair.

Watch the entire cut now!