3 Essential Bob Cutting Tips: Density, Tension & Control Explained

Master Bob Cutting: Control, Precision Tension & Sectioning for Density 

“The Perfect Bob” involves more than just experience—it’s about understanding proper control of your client’s hair to balance tension, precision, control and density articulation. Master educator and ARC™ Scissors Ambassador Ben Brown (@benbrownhair) breaks down his course on BTC University to explore how each of these elements impacts your final result. 

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1. How to Avoid Losing Control of Multiple Sections

Ben stresses the importance of section width for achieving the perfect bob for two reasons:

• Wide sections can cause a loss of control. This is especially true in areas with natural curves, like the nape. When sections are too wide, precision is difficult to maintain, leading to uneven cuts and unwanted lengths.
• Narrower sections give you greater control. By working with smaller sections, you ensure each part of the hair is cut evenly and with precision. This approach helps create a clean, sharp bob line that falls naturally.

Watch Ben’s quick demo on simple adjustments to avoid holes around the ear:

2. If You’re not Adjusting Tension per Section, You’re Collapsing the Bob

Ben’s technique focuses on the amount of tension used depending on your client’s hair type and the area of the head you’re cutting. Most clients with textured or curly hair have multiple patterns throughout their head, so here’s what to look for:

• For thick or coarse hair, use lower tension: Thick hair has more density and tends to lift or “breathe in” after it’s cut. Applying too much tension can cause the hair to shrink once dry, making it appear shorter than intended.

When cutting thick or coarse hair, use the wide side of your comb to create lower tension. This allows the hair to settle naturally, preventing the dreaded “jump” in the final cut.

• For fine or thin hair, use higher tension: Fine hair needs more control to ensure a precise, clean line.

Use the narrow side of your comb to apply higher tension, keeping fine hair secure as you cut for precision.

Ben uses the HARMONY II 5” by ARC™ Scissors. “The blades are slightly convex, allowing me to create both robust cuts and fine precision with the blade’s tip,” he says.

Products Used

Shears

ARC™ Scissors HARMONY II

ARC™ Scissors

Watch Ben’s quick demo to see the reality of tension and section adjustments:

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3. Three Common Mistakes That Ruin a Bob’s Balance

The perfect bob has balance between three things: Section width, tension and density control. However there are a few techniques that will make or break the harmony between the three.

1. Ignoring growth patterns at the crown

The crown is individual to each client and often has multiple growth patterns (like cowlicks), which can cause the hair to jump or lift after being cut.

Using minimal tension when working around the crown will maintain a lower tension which helps the hair fall naturally, ensuring a balanced and even bob.

2. Not adjusting tension per density at the nape

The nape can be challenging due to its lower density and the natural curve of the neck.

When cutting around the nape, reduce your tension to ensure the hair falls smoothly. Ben recommends using a fine-tip scissor like the ARC™ Scissors HARMONY II for clean lines in delicate areas.

3. Not maintaining tension when checking the cut

It’s essential to maintain the same tension when checking your cut. If you’ve cut with low tension, review the cut with the same tension to avoid creating the appearance of uneven lengths. 

Watch Ben’s quick demo of the tension mistakes you need to avoid:

Click here to watch Ben’s full class on BTC-U!