Redken Symposium—Learn, Earn and Live Better
By Heather Haemker
More than 8,000 dedicated stylists took over Mandalay Bay Hotel and Casino last weekend during one of the biggest and most exciting celebrations in the beauty industry—Redken Symposium 2015. On the agenda—three days of top-notch education from the best stylists, cutters and colorists in the wonderful world of Redken. Attendees soaked up as much knowledge as possible and took in all the helpful tips and tricks they could—all in the name of spending their time behind the chair more efficiently.
This jam-packed event was filled with new product launches in color and styling from Redken and Pureology that included a new frizz-fighting styling line (Frizz Dismiss), a new matte color line (Redkden Chromatics Ultra Rich) and a lengthening line to help grow hair (Redken Extend).
Kicking off the event, the Redken Educators crafted a show dedicated to each new product launch in both the Redken and Pureology lines.
At the heart of Symposium, was remembering the late Paula Kent Meehan, who was responsible for many of the launches and decisions that have made the brand what it is today.
With classes focused on handling color mishaps, to using social media to make an impact on your business, Symposium had something for everyone, providing the knowledge, inspiration and business skills need to “Learn better, Earn better, and Live better” and strengthen one’s techniques to ultimately build a more successful salon.
Just when you thought it couldn’t get any better—Monday night ended with an exciting performance from the multi-platinum band Neon Trees! There was so much to see and learn at Symposium, we couldn’t get enough! Here are some snippets from a few of our favorite classes.
Let’s Talk Color
Redken Celebrity Colorist, Tracey Cunningham and David Stanko, Redken Master Colorist walked the audience through five, natural-looking color transformations, providing superb tips on using Shades EQ to get the best results possible.
Tracey gets her inspiration from everywhere. She often takes pictures of children’s virgin, untouched color, which serve as inspiration for not only her models, but for her celebrity clients as well.
Natural Level: 7
Formula A (highlight):1 oz. Blonde Idol Oil Booster + 2 packettes Blonde Idol Customizable Blue Powder Activator + 2 oz. 20-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer
Formula B (Zone 1): 2 oz. 000 Crystal Clear Shades EQ Gloss + 1/16 oz. 09V Shades EQ Gloss + 2 1/16 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution
1. Apply the 9V all over and the 9V + 9N around her hairline.
2. 9NB + 8N should be applied to the root.
3. Process the color for 20 minutes. If you want a little extra lightness, apply 9N + 9B in Zone 2 and blend the color out.
1. “Don’t balayage the ends, or the hair will end up looking like noodles,” notes Tracey. Simply pick up pieces of dull strands and balayage scalp to ends to make them bright.
2. Always root the client so you don’t get a stripey effect.
3. Process a glaze no more than 2 to 3 minutes with gold, then apply 00 Clear for 20 minutes.
Natural Level: 3
Formula A (highlight): 1 oz. Blonde Idol Oil Booster + 2 packettes Blonde Idol Customizable Blue Powder Activator + 2 oz. 20-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer
Formula B (hairline): ½ oz. 07NB Shades EQ Gloss + ½ oz. 09N Shades EQ Gloss + 2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution
Formula C (Zone 1): 1 oz. 06NB Shades EQ Gloss + 1 oz. 06N Shades EQ Gloss + 2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution
Formula D (Zones 2 & 3): 1 oz. 09G Shades EQ Gloss + ½ oz. 09AA Shades EQ Gloss + ½ oz. 08C Shades EQ Gloss + 2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution
Tip: To get Lily Aldridge’s look, don’t just highlight the ends. Tracey highlights from scalp to ends and then applies a root color. This way the color will grow out more natural looking.
The Single-Process Blonde
According to David, a blonde can go one of three ways: gold and sophisticated, white platinum, which is usually an ashy tone, or orange.
Natural Level: 7/ medium texture
Formula A: 1 oz. N (0) Blonde Idol High Lift Conditioning Cream + 2 oz. 40-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer
Formula B: 1 oz. Blonde Idol Oil Booster + 1 packette Blonde Idol Customizable Blue Powder Activator + 1 oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer
Formula C: 2 oz. 000 Crystal Clear Shades EQ Gloss + 1/16 oz. 09V Shades EQ Gloss + 2 1/16 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution
1. Push the color through Zone 2.
2. Once the color has been applied to Zone 1, push it through to Zone 2. This will give you the greatest blonde-on-blonde look. David then blew the hair dry and gave her a round shape.
Blondes can’t process for too long, if you go an extra 5 to 10 minutes you risk the high lift taking over the oil lightener. The goal was to maintain her a bit and create more softness and elegance.
Natural Level: 4/ medium texture
Formula A: 1 oz. 05WN Shades EQ Cream + 1 oz. 05BR Shades EQ Cream + ¼ oz. 06BC Shades EQ Cream + 2 ¼ oz. 10-volume Pro-oxide Cream Developer
Formula B: 1 oz. 09AA Shades EQ Gloss + 1 oz. 09G SEQ Gloss + 2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution
1. Apply Formula A all over.
2. Apply Formula B all over.
3. Apply Formula C all over.
4. Process for 20 minutes, then rinse and towel-dry the hair.
Natural Level: 4/ medium texture
Formula A (highlight): 1 oz. Chromatics Clear + 1 oz. 30-volume Chromatics Oil in Cream Developer
Formula B (Zone 1): 2 oz. 4Bc (4.54) Chromatics + 2 oz. 6Bc (6.54) Chromatics + 2 oz. 20-volume Chromatics Oil in Cream Developer
Formula C (Zones 2 & 3): 2 oz. 6Bc (6.54) Chromatics + 2 oz. 20-volume Chromatics Oil in Cream Developer
1. When pulling color through virgin hair, go through with gloved hands to distribute the color more evenly. Massage the color throughout the hair, blending from scalp to ends.
2. If clients base is blonde, do the base first, then highlight and root.
3. When booking clients, allow yourself enough time to do a proper job. “Your clients are worth doing right, don’t cut corners,” says David. “Create highlights around the hairline, and give yourself enough time to do the job right.”
4. If I was working on a blonde and I decided she was too yellow, I would suggest 000 Clear + 9V, and change the proportions to make the color more of a whipped butter blonde,” he says. “Tell the guest to come back in three weeks for a glaze and take a few bucks off, it’s a deal for me and it helps build customer loyalty.”
Tips for the Gray Haired Client
“Your older clients are your money because they have to come in,” notes Tracey. “Don’t just slap on a base color in Zone 1—create a custom hairline formula.” Highlight around the hairline so that the hair will grow out lighter and be less noticeable. “You are your clients’ first step in the anti-aging process, so make time for them,” she says. Hold your hands over the area that is gray, and ask your client if they are happy with their hair. Most likely they aren’t. Then, create a custom balayage, highlight and lowlight around their face, creating a custom shade that will leave them looking younger. “If you take the time to do their color right, they will be loyal for life,” notes Tracey.
Blondes are More Fun
One of Redken’s biggest launches this year is blondes. During their Blonde Idol class they provided all kinds of helpful tips, there are three new things we learned.
1. Do a strand test at the same time you are applying your base color.
2. When it comes to balayage, always up your developer or ammonia.
3. There is a new kind of ombré called the cascading ombré, which starts high around the face and cascades down.
Chris Baron and Sam Villa walked the audience through two cuts and provided eight tips and tricks to use on your long-haired clients.
According to Sam, “In the salon, we try to sell clients on what they need, but often, it’s not what they want.” Both he and Chris drove the idea home about doing things differently. “Ask yourself ‘If, then’ before every service,” advises Sam. If she wants a new style, then use this opportunity as a way to try something new. “We can no longer keep doing things the same way. We have to challenge ourselves to find ways ways to do different things.” How? By changing the way you approach your cut and color clients. Instead of giving them their usual cut, start the conversation and find out what they don’t like about their hair. From there, you can give them a completely new shape, which will build customer loyalty.
Adding to this point, Chris advises to show your clients how to do simple styling tricks so they can do them at home. “Show your clients how to do a ponytail or the perfect bun. Bring out the mannequins from the back and have them try it for themselves,” he says.
Rodney Cutler and David Stanko shared tips and tricks for color and style trends. To start, Rodney advised that stylists talk to their clients before doing anything else. “Find out about their life…what they are interested in, who they are,” he says. When you talk to your client you are able to decipher what they are interested in and create a custom look and color that will bring out their individual personality.
And for the stylist who dreams of working behind the scenes at Fashion Week, here are two key looks you must master first, according to Rodney: the classic ponytail and the French twist. It’s also important to use products to create texture in the hair. “Fashion Week is about the clothes, not the hair, so it’s important to bring the texture of the clothing to life in the hair,” notes Rodney.