Jack Martin’s Top Color Formulas For Silver & Gray Transformations

Clients Transitioning to Silver? Jack Martin Shares His Formulation Secrets!

No longer a telltale sign of aging beauty, more female clients are embracing their silver strands. But the transition is FAR from easy—especially creating a formula that is the perfect color match to their new natural. 

“It’s not about letting the gray hair appear, nor being passive about it. It’s about going gray in a proactive way,” shared colorist and gray hair expert Jack Martin (@jackmartincolorist) on Instagram. Known for transforming his clients from extreme color corrections to gorgeous silver shades, we’re sharing Jack’s best formulas and tips! 

Clients ready to embrace their gray? Try Jack’s go-to silver + gray shades: Shop here!

Hit play to watch Jack break down how to color match gray roots and formulate lowlights needed for the transformations!

 

 

 

 

 

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Takeaway Formulas: 

• Silver formula: Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal Absolutes 3/4 Silver + 1/4 Dove Grey + 7-volume developer

• Dark Charcoal formula: IGORA Royal Absolutes Slate Grey + 10-volume developer

Look #1: Color correction to dimensional silver

Desired results: Color match the client’s natural gray and add dimension 

Time behind the chair: One session, 7 hours

Click the beaker for a full formula breakdown!

• Formula A (lightener)

  Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+ + 20-volume BLONDME Premium developer

   

  Processing time: Two hours

• Formula B (pre-tone)

  Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Vibrance 9-5,21 + 0-11 booster + IGORA Vibrance Activator Lotion 

   

  Processing time: 10 minutes

• Formula C (toner)

  BLONDME Pastel Toner Steel Blue + one dot of BLONDME Pastel Toner Lilac + IGORA Royal Absolutes Silver + 7-volume developer

   

  Processing time: 30 minutes 

• Formula D (lowlights)

  Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal equal parts 6-12 + 8-11 + 7-volume developer

Instagram via @jackmartincolorist

Takeaway Tip #1: Create a gradient with the client’s natural color to achieve a seamless grow out

Using the natural root as a starting point, Jack creates a gradient of color that blends the client’s darker roots into bright, silver ends. 

“I didn’t touch the natural roots at all, I just created a gradual dark to light silver ombré. This way, the client can enjoy growing out their hair and maybe come back for a retouch every five to six months,” Jack explains. 

Look #2: Blonde to all over silver transformation 

Desired results: Color match the client’s natural root

Time behind the chair: One session, 7 hours

Hit the beaker icon for Jack’s full formula!

• Formula A (lightener)

  Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Bond Enforcing Premium Lightener 9+ + 20-volume BLONDME Premium developer

   

  Processing time: Two hours

• Formula B (pre-tone)

  Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Vibrance 9-5,21 + 0-11 booster + IGORA Vibrance Activator Lotion 

   

  Processing time: 10 minutes

• Formula C (toner)

  BLONDME Pastel Toner 1/4 Steel Blue + one dot of BLONDME Pastel Toner Lilac + 3/4 IGORA Royal Absolutes Silver + 7-volume developer 

   

  Processing time: 30 minutes

• Formula D (lowlights)

  IGORA Royal equal parts 6-12 + 8-11 + 7-volume developer

Instagram via @jackmartincolorist

Related: Jack Shares His Tips For Making Toner Last 5 Months!

Takeaway Tip #2: Use strategic placement to blend partial gray strands

Some clients only have silver specks around their hairline. So, instead of transforming their entire look, Jack focuses on the face frame. Why? “Framing the face with silver blends the hairline roots and helps embrace the client’s natural color,” he explains. 

Look #3: Four-month refresh toning service

Desired result: Eliminate faded, pale yellow tones

Click the beaker icon for Jack’s toner & lowlight formulas!

• Formula A (toner)

  1/2 Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Royal Absolutes Silver + 1/2 BLONDME Pastel Toner Ice + 7-volume BLONDME Cream developer

   

  Processing time: 30 minutes 

• Formula B (lowlights)

  IGORA Royal equal parts 6-12 + 8-11 + 7-volume developer

Instagram via @jackmartincolorist

Takeaway Tip #3: Avoid a washed out complexion 

Clients feeling apprehensive about their new color? New makeup could be the answer. Jack shared this beauty tip: “I always advise clients to try different makeup after their transformation. For example, a darker eyebrow will create contrast against the silver, so their face won’t seem washed out,” he explains.