Color Correction Hacks: Banding, Wet Balayage & Clay Lightener
What Techniques, Lighteners & Processes To Choose For Color Corrections
When color corrections turn from a buzzword into a client sitting in front of you, do you know where to start?
With so many options and modern techniques, we’ll walk you through three bulletproof options that will lift lighten, blend and break through any situation you’re presented with.
#1. When To Choose: Wet Balayage Vs. Traditional Balayage
The purpose of using a color technique on wet hair is to create a softer and brighter look. A wet balayage is an ideal “final blend” during a color correction because you’re able to gently lift the hair through its final phase quickly without blasting the cuticle.
Why a wet balayage works:
Firstly, the hair should be damp, not soaking wet as the name implies. Moisture in the hair helps liquid hair color, including lightener, to spread evenly. The water in the hair also slightly dilutes the color, creating a natural blended effect.
Color specialist Caitlin Dugan (@coloredbycaitlin) shares, “Every other session I will do a wet balayage to brighten most of my blonde clients. Typically, only two to three times a year per person.”
#1. First, foil where needed for dimension:
- “For my foils I use Schwarzkopf Professional® BLONDME Premium Lightener 9+ and switch to BLONDME Premium Clay Lightener 7+ + BLONDME 20-volume Premium Lightener for the wet balayage for the best consistency to use on wet hair to still get the even lift.”
#2: Rinse everything thoroughly.
- Stay at the bowl for step #3, making sure to not apply any treatments.
#3. Apply your root shadow as normal.
- Pro Tip: Prepare the clay lightener before applying your root shadow for step #4.
#4. While the root shadow processes, wet balayage the hair for added brightness
- Work the clay lightener through each section evenly and keep an eye on your root shadow processing time.
Browse the entire BLONDME line of lighteners from powder to clay by clicking here!
#2. Safely Lifting Through Orange Bands: Here’s How
To quickly and safely lift through a band, follow this hack from curl specialist Monica Cher (@hairbymonicacher) to mimic her foolproof color correction process.
Here’s the color correction situation:
- Starting point: Grown out permanent color and lightener
- Goal: A soft, caramel balayage
- Process: Lift through permanent color, blend band and keep curl integrity
Here’s how to eliminate an orange band without damage:
#1. Start with foils, choosing a pattern that plays to your clients’ previous color.
- Monica says, “I strategically started the color correction with highlights to ensure I did not lighten any previously lightened pieces.”
#2. Allow banding to happen!
- Once the highlights are pulled, Monica advises to look for the orange bands where the old and new lightener did not overlap. This is your sign that you did not over-process the hair and your new marker of where the lightener needs to reach.
#3. Use your fingers to blend the new lightener onto the band.
- “Pull the lightener down just for the last few minutes of processing to break through the band by the time you rinse,” says Monica.
#3. Avoid Turning Your Gray Coverage Client Into A Color Correction
PSA: Unless you see a solid line of demarcation, you do not need to start full gray coverage appointments. The more permanent color you pile onto your client’s hair, the more obvious grays become and the harder it will be to change looks in the future.
Monica says, “A lower maintenance option I usually recommend is fine, new growth highlights. Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME Premium Lightener 9+ around the face frame prolongs her color while covering grays. It glides on really well, even the thinnest pieces, without overprocessing the hair”
Benefits of highlighting grays versus covering them:
- Avoid constant touch-ups every four weeks
- Eliminates the risk of pulling red or green tones at the root from permanent color
- Gently hides grays while allowing them to grow without being fully visible
- Up to five months of touch-ups in between appointments
Watch Monica’s client demo here:
Grab every BLONDME product & more mentioned in this article here!
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