HOW-TO STEPS

• 1

  Create an underneath ombré with Formula A, using a classic backcombing technique. Backcomb each section really tight and highlight the hair between foils, saturating each strand completely so you don’t miss any spots. “I like to create a sparkle near the backcombed area, blurring it into the actual ombré,” says Guy. “The reason I backcomb the hair is because the backcomb creates a cushion, diffusing the line so that when I put the product down here and then I uncomb the hair, you can see how soft the highlight is.” 

• 

  

  

  • Formula A (highlights):

    4 scoops ILLUSIONIST Accelerator Powder + 1/2 tube 9AV ILLUSIONIST Brilliant Creme Highlights Bombshell + 2 oz. 20-volume PURE OXI Creme developer

  • Formula B (lowlights):

    equal parts 2 oz. Hypnotic Single-Step Creme Lowlights 9NA Cashmere + 1 oz. Scruples PURE OXI 10-volume creme developer

  2

  Next, move onto highlighting around the face. Create diagonal back sections away from the face, hugging the face-framing pieces, and take back-to-back slices or micro-weaves and highlight using Formula A. “Scruples never over-lifts, it simply lifts to the perfect level and that’s it,” says Guy. Feather the color through, turning the brush slightly to create vertical strokes to help transition the natural pieces to preexisting light pieces. Tip: When you fold the foil, leave a slight bubble at the end of the foil for air to get through; do not crease it. The bubble allows for air to penetrate creating the perfect incubation for the color to process. 

• 

  

  

  • Formula A (highlights):

    4 scoops ILLUSIONIST Accelerator Powder + 1/2 tube 9AV ILLUSIONIST Brilliant Creme Highlights Bombshell + 2 oz. 20-volume PURE OXI Creme developer

  • Formula B (lowlights):

    equal parts 2 oz. Hypnotic Single-Step Creme Lowlights 9NA Cashmere + 1 oz. Scruples PURE OXI 10-volume creme developer

  3

  Continue the highlighting technique all around the face-frame area. 

• 

  

  

  • Formula A (highlights):

    4 scoops ILLUSIONIST Accelerator Powder + 1/2 tube 9AV ILLUSIONIST Brilliant Creme Highlights Bombshell + 2 oz. 20-volume PURE OXI Creme developer

  • Formula B (lowlights):

    equal parts 2 oz. Hypnotic Single-Step Creme Lowlights 9NA Cashmere + 1 oz. Scruples PURE OXI 10-volume creme developer

  4

  To create babylights around the face, take back-to-back sections around the face. For the top of the head, space the babylights out a bit more so you can see the lowlights. Continue the babylights throughout the crown.

• 

  

  

  • Formula A (highlights):

    4 scoops ILLUSIONIST Accelerator Powder + 1/2 tube 9AV ILLUSIONIST Brilliant Creme Highlights Bombshell + 2 oz. 20-volume PURE OXI Creme developer

  • Formula B (lowlights):

    equal parts 2 oz. Hypnotic Single-Step Creme Lowlights 9NA Cashmere + 1 oz. Scruples PURE OXI 10-volume creme developer

  5

  Begin your lowlights using Formula B, feathering the color down but leaving the ends out.

• 6

  Rinse the hair, shampoo and condition.