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Formulas > Subtle Brunette Dimension
January 24, 2018

Subtle Brunette Dimension

By Liz Haven O'Neill

  • Formula A:

    Goldwell Topchic 20ml 5MB + 30ml 5N + 25ml 20-volume developer + 25ml 30-volume developer

  • Formula B:

    Goldwell Topchic 10ml 5MB + 30ml 5N + 10ml 5BG + 25ml 10-volume developer + 25ml 20-volume developer

  • Formula C:

    Paul Mitchell Synchro Lift Lightener + 30-volume developer

  • Formula D:

    Redken Shades EQ 0.5oz. 9V + 0.5oz. 9P + 1oz. Crystal Clear + 2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution

  • Formula E:

    Redken Shades EQ 1oz. 9V + 1oz. Crystal Clear + 2oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution

Whether high-contrast or a touch of subtlety, there is a dimensional look for every client. So if the brown-haired beauty in your chair wants to keep her locks as natural-looking as possible, check out this low-maintenance brunette from Liz Haven O’Neill (@LizHaven), owner of Kaleido Hair Artistry in Houston, Texas. It’s simply stunning, and we’ve got all the deets below!

 

Want to be featured? Tag your pics to #behindthechair!

 

Pricing
Color Retouch: $70+
Full Balayage: $205+ (For each extra bowl of lightener/color, Liz adds $10.)
Lowlight: $40+
Toner: $40+
Haircut: $90+
Total: $445+

 

Who Did It

Products Used

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Formula A:

    Goldwell Topchic 20ml 5MB + 30ml 5N + 25ml 20-volume developer + 25ml 30-volume developer

  • Formula B:

    Goldwell Topchic 10ml 5MB + 30ml 5N + 10ml 5BG + 25ml 10-volume developer + 25ml 20-volume developer

  • Formula C:

    Paul Mitchell Synchro Lift Lightener + 30-volume developer

  • Formula D:

    Redken Shades EQ 0.5oz. 9V + 0.5oz. 9P + 1oz. Crystal Clear + 2 oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution

  • Formula E:

    Redken Shades EQ 1oz. 9V + 1oz. Crystal Clear + 2oz. Shades EQ Processing Solution

FORMULA STEPS

Before

 

1. Find the guest’s natural part, and part to the nape of the neck and to the tip of the ear on both sides. This should create quadrants. 

 

2. Touch up her color by applying Formula A to each quadrant, keeping her natural part visible.

 

3. Then, start with the back right quadrant and take a 1½-inch diagonal back section. Within this section, weave with medium density and separate the top from the bottom. “This is important because the top woven section will be the balayage application and the bottom woven section will be the lowlight,” shares Liz.

 

4. Take the bottom woven section first, then use a balayage board to apply Formula B from the end of Formula A to the ends of the hair. Then, neatly place the painted section down for open air processing.

 

5. Move on to the top woven section and balayage with Formula C. “I place blended vertical lines with Formula C where I want to see light and left the natural pigment alone where I wanted to see the shadow live,” notes Liz. “I’m essentially contouring my guest’s color by complementing their bone structure and skin tone.”

 

6. Place each hand-painted balayage section in foil to process. This will incubate the section and keep the lightener from drying out.

 

7. Continue steps 3 through 6 in each quadrant.

 

 

8. At the bowl, on towel-dried hair, apply Formula D on the midlengths and Formula E on the ends. Process for 15 minutes, then shampoo and condition.

 

9. Prep hair with Kenra Professional Platinum Blow-Dry Spray, then round brush with the Paul Mitchell XL Express Ion Round brush.