Last updated: July 26, 2017
What Would You Do? Removing a New Color Application
It doesn’t happen often, but when it does, it’s not ideal. A client is loving her new color transformation, but her boss? Not so much. Now you need to find a way to remove her recent color application so she can keep her job and the integrity of her hair. Not only is it a process for both you and the client, but it’s a process that presents a risk for further damage. The goal? Avoid that at all costs. So, is it possible to remove a new color application, fast, without compromising the health of the hair? That’s what one of our BTC community members wanted to know.
“I would love some advice on color correction. Last week, I used blue demi-permanent watercolors for lowlights on a lady with lightened/bleached, nearly white blonde, pourous hair. She just called and said her job will not let her keep the blue and now I have to take it out. I have Olaplex but I’m afraid if I put more bleach on her, not only will it melt her hair, but then I will be stuck with a green-ish, blue color that is so deep into the internal hair structure that I will never get it out. Are there any color removers that will remove demi color without bleach? What would you do?”
Here’s what some of our more than 945,000 Instagram followers had to say about the scenario!
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“You can wash the hair with a dish soap type of shampoo and apply a Level 9/10 neutral toner. Let it sit for a couple of minutes, then rinse. Then apply lightener with a low developer and it will extract the pigment right out. The neutral toner goes into the hair shaft and absorbs the blue color molecules, making it easier to take out with a lightener.” -@rebavera
“Redken Chromatics Clear with the 30-volume Oil in Cream Developer—literally pulls the color out in minutes to a pale yellow state.” -@hairdesignsbytaylor
“PRAVANA Hair Color Extractor! It can be used up to three times in a day and I’ve used it several times on my own hair because I like having different colors all the time! Do a deep condition after then proceed with the color that she decides to go with.”
“Joico Vero K-Pak Color Intensity Eraser—it works amazing! You can buy it at Cosmoprof. If not, I’ve used 20-volume developer with a permanent clear 0/0 and it will remove better than regular bleaching. Sometimes the bleach drives the pigment further into the hair.” -@amaliedonnelly
“L’Oréal Professionnel makes an awesome color remover. It’s called Effasol Color Remover. Its loose consistency makes the application very easy and quick, but be careful because it will lighten natural hair if it touches it. I usually start with 15-volume developer. You can even mix it with their Smartbond bonding system to preserve the integrity of that hair.” -@lgibsoncolorist
“You can definitely include Olaplex to help keep her hair strong! I would do a Malibu C Crystal Gel Wellness Hair Remedy followed by Malibu C CPR Color Pigment Reducer and Malibu C Un-Do-Goo Shampoo. Then use an Olaplex stand alone followed by a deep condition, like Malibu C Miracle Repair Reconstructor or CONCENTR8 Mixers. That should take it out. You can also use CPR more than once. This would be the least invasive way to remove it.”
“I used Wella Professionals Color Touch 00/0 Clear Tone with 10-volume developer and ColorpHlex and it worked instantly! Make sure you wash it off as soon as you see it change back.” -@rachel_mungcal_hair
“We use Keune Tinta 2000 Super Blonde Highlight with 20-volume developer (6%), and it removes tint amazing without pushing the molecules further into the hair shaft…I’ve removed blue red, green and yellow out with ease.” -@hairart_ellenbrook
“Depending on what color line you use, I would use a clear (like what you’d use to dilute color) with 30- to 40-volume developer and leave it on the hair for up to 45 minutes. After taking a class they warned me against using a color remover as it will just rearrange the molecules and generally not help much. Also, ask her to clarify her hair a few times every time she washes to help remove excess color until you see her again.” -@lucyford14
“Use a Level 10 and mix a line of orange intensifier in it with 10-volume developer. Orange is the opposite color of blue. It will neutralize it and take it right out. And try to only get it on the blue pieces.” -@_thehaircolorist
“I would create a light orange semi- or demi-permanent formula and apply it to her hair. It will create a nice grayish, darker shade that’s guaranteed safe for work. I’ve been experimenting with color corrections lately and most of the time, I don’t need remover or bleach at all. Just use the opposite color.” –@rambutrainbow
“Try a clarifying shampoo on dry hair first. Apply it to the blue, put a plastic bag over it and have her sit under heat for 10 to 20 minutes. Rinse with clarifying shampoo…You can also mix powdered lightener with warm water to remove the tone, but that’s harder to do on specific sections.” -@hairbybronwen