Men’s Cutting: 3 Tips For Creating Texture
Men’s Education: 3 Cutting Tips For Midlength Styles
Are your male clients requesting haircuts that are edgier than the average cropped cut? For his course on BTC University, award-winning barber and photographer Kevin Luchmun (@kevinluchmun) broke down his fundamental cutting and sectioning techniques for giving classic men’s styles a modern upgrade. Scroll down for a sneak peak into the class and click here to become a BTC-U Member and receive unlimited access to the full course on BTC University!
You can learn Kevin’s full technique in his 90-minute course, but we’re teasing these tips you need to know now!
Tip #1: Avoid Overdirection
Kevin’s technique utilizes the natural curve of the head and straight elevation to create layers that accentuate the client’s natural texture. To avoid any overdirection and keep the shape symmetrical, Kevin uses the width of his comb to determine section size.
Tip #2: Create Stability With You Finger
Does your point cutting result in large holes instead of texture? The problem could be the angle of the shears. Entering the hair with the blades horizontal allows you to create a more natural looking texture. To achieve this, Kevin uses the ring finger of his supporting hand to guide the outer edge of his scissor. Not only does this keep the blades steady, but it also creates more stability and control when point cutting.
Pro Tip: To create the maximum amount of texture with his point cut, Kevin advises leaving enough distance between his fingers and the hair that is being cut. Kevin uses the 6″ PARAGON II from ARC™ Scissors, “The shorter blade on the PARAGON II gives me more control and allows me to see the detail when creating texture,” he says.
Tip #3: Avoid Overtexturizing Weak Hairlines
If your male client has a lot of length but not as much density around the hairline (which is OK and assure them—normal!), Kevin will switch up the partings to avoid over-layering the hairline. Check out the steps below for how to avoid over-texturizing:
- Instead of taking vertical sections that follow the roundness of the head shape, Kevin will take horizontal sections that mimic the diagonal back parting created at the recession.
- Then, standing behind the section, Kevin elevates the hair straight up and point cuts parallel to the section.
Pro Tip: The higher up each section is elevated, the more weight will be maintained at the hairline. So elevation can be altered depending on the client’s density.
Slide For The Before & After
Have Questions? Kevin Has Answers!
One of the benefits of watching a course on BTC University? Artists are able to answer your questions in REAL TIME! Here are some technical questions viewers had for Kevin during his livestream:
Question: Do you usually perform all of your haircuts wet or do you ever utilize dry cutting techniques?
Answer: “Every haircut I do, whether it is shorter cuts on men or long layers on women, I create my foundational shape with the hair wet. Then, once I’ve dried the hair and styled it into that shape, I will start to personalize and detail the hair when it is dry. I like to personalize the hair when it is dry and styled so I can see any areas of the style that are heavier or need a bit more refinement,” he explains.
Q: How do you approach cutting a men’s fringe with a client that has a very strong widow’s peak?
A: “In that case, when sectioning off my fringe I would probably make the section thicker. Then, when cutting my crown sections, instead of elevating everything straight up from the head shape, I would over-direct everything back to the previous section. This will give the hair that is falling forward a bit more length and weight.”
Click Through The Slideshow For A Full View Of The Finished Look!