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Formulas > Frozen Blonde + Pastel Shadow Root
May 17, 2016

Frozen Blonde + Pastel Shadow Root

  • Natural/Starting Level:

    7

  • Formula A:

    Redken Flash Lift Lightener + 30-volume developer + Olaplex No.1

  • Formula B:

    Redken Flash Lift Lightener + 20-volume developer + Olaplex No.1

  • Formula C (toner):

    Equal parts PRAVANA ChromaSilk Express Tones in Violet + PRAVANA Zero Lift Crème Developer + a dot of PRAVANA ChromaSilk VIVIDS in Violet

  • Formula D:

    Equal parts PRAVANA ChromaSilk Express Tones in Violet and Clear + PRAVANA Zero Lift Crème Developer

Brb—gazing wistfully at this insanely gorgeous frozen blonde/lavender root color creation, fresh out of Ross Michaels Salon in Bremerton, Wash. This look was created by owners and stylists Michael and Melody Lowenstein, who have both been in the biz for a while (they opened Ross Michaels in 1989), and they’ve been expertly crafting frozen blondes, vivid mermaid color melts and pretty pastel confections in every shade of the rainbow since these trends popped onto the beauty scene a few years back.

 

One of the hottest trends in fantasy color at the moment, says Michael, has to be the ultra icy platinum blonde with just a hint of a pastel shadow root, and to say Michael has this look down to a science…would be an understatement.

 

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“I believe the reason this technique has gained so much popularity is that it is a subtle, soft look that allows a client to be on trend without the full on commitment of a vivid or neon look,” he says. “When the pastel shadow root eventually fades (they all fade), the client is left with a beautiful platinum color.”

 

Since this look is ALL about how light you can get the hair (for true platinum, the hair really must be lifted to nearly pure white), notes Michael, it is of the utmost importance that a consultation takes place with your potential client. “You need to be completely honest with your client (and yourself) when determining whether this look will be obtainable,” he says. “I know this may seem obvious, but I can’t stress enough that your client’s base color level, current hair condition and hair history must be considered prior to a full bleach and tone.”

 

Finally, Michael notes, bond builders like Olaplex are essential parts of this process, but remember, no product can guarantee zero breakage. 

 

Who Did It

Colorist: Melody Lowenstein; Michael Lowenstein
Manufacturer: Olaplex, @olaplex; PRAVANA, @pravana; Redken, @redken

COLOR FORMULAS

  • Natural/Starting Level:

    7

  • Formula A:

    Redken Flash Lift Lightener + 30-volume developer + Olaplex No.1

  • Formula B:

    Redken Flash Lift Lightener + 20-volume developer + Olaplex No.1

  • Formula C (toner):

    Equal parts PRAVANA ChromaSilk Express Tones in Violet + PRAVANA Zero Lift Crème Developer + a dot of PRAVANA ChromaSilk VIVIDS in Violet

  • Formula D:

    Equal parts PRAVANA ChromaSilk Express Tones in Violet and Clear + PRAVANA Zero Lift Crème Developer

FORMULA STEPS

1. Starting ½-inch from the scalp, apply Formula A to the midlengths.

2. Apply Formula B to the roots and the ends.
Note: When using Olaplex, the volume of your developer should decrease by 10, for instance 30-volume should become 20-volume.

3. Process until a true, Level 10 platinum is achieved. “Be patient, but also diligent,” says Michael. “Touch the hair—is it stretching or breaking? Or does the integrity still feel strong? This is where your expertise comes into play.” For this particular client, the bleach processed for almost 45 minutes on the midlengths, 20 minutes on the roots and 10 minutes on the ends. Michael also notes that he alternated between processing in open air and using a plastic cap. The client was not put under a color processor or dryer.

4. Rinse thoroughly using cool water. Do not shampoo.

5. Apply Formula C to damp hair, at the root area only. Process for 10 minutes.

6. While Formula C processes, apply Formula D to the remaining hair and process for 10 minutes. This means Formula C will process for a total of 20 minutes.
Note: “When using this toner formula, there will be a moment during the processing when you will look at the hair and think OMG! I just turned my perfect, Level 10 hair that I want to be platinum PURPLE or GRAY!” says Michael. “Relax, you haven’t—remember, this is a toner, not double pigment permanent color.”

7. Rinse using cool water once again. Olaplex No.2 was then applied and left on for 10 minutes. 

8. Rinse, then apply Kevin Murphy HYDRATE-ME.MASQUE only (no shampoo) for soft, moisturized hair.