Why Folding Foils Could Sabotage Your Blonde Results
When it comes to creating high-impact blonde results, every detail of your application matters—from sectioning to product saturation to the way you handle your foils. According to Suzi Angelina (@hair.by.suzi), a BTC University instructor and luxury blonding specialist, one technique she avoids in her blonding work is excessively folding foils.
Folding your foils creates a barrier that traps heat unevenly, especially in areas where the fold overlaps, Suzi explains in her BTC University class, Luxury Blondes. This can cause inconsistent lift, leaving some sections warmer than others. Worse, it can even lead to overprocessing in the folded areas where heat builds up.
For stylists working with darker natural levels or compromised hair, Suzi believes maintaining control throughout the lightening process is essential to achieving seamless, luxury results.
Why Suzi Prefers Open Foils
Instead of folding, Suzi recommends leaving foils open throughout processing. She says that by leaving the foils open, you’re creating a more consistent heat distribution. This is especially critical when working with deep bases or previous tint, where the margin for error is smaller.
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To keep the foils secure without folding, Suzi suggests using a clip or simply pressing the foil along the hairline to hold it in place. She also notes that open foils make it easier to visually monitor the lift as the lightener processes.
Quick Foiling Tips for Luxury Blondes
Suzi’s blonding strategy extends beyond foil placement. Here are a few additional techniques she uses to create seamless, high-impact blonde results while prioritizing hair integrity:
1. Adjust Developer Strength Strategically
“Different zones of the head require different approaches,” Suzi explains. For example, she often uses Moroccanoil® Blonde Voyage Lightener with 20-volume developer for areas with stronger, healthier hair while stepping down to 10-volume for more fragile sections. The goal is to lift evenly without compromising the hair.
2. Preserve Depth for a Natural Transition
One of the biggest mistakes stylists make, according to Suzi, is over-lightening the midsection, which can leave the root without a natural connection point. Always leave some of the client’s natural depth intact, Suzi advises. This creates a more seamless transition and prevents the blonde from looking stripy or disconnected.
Need inspo? Tap through Suzi’s most viral blondes below:
3. Use Root Melts for Longevity
Root melting is another key technique in Suzi’s luxury blonding approach—it not only softens the transition between the natural root and the blonde but also extends the life of the color. It’s a must for clients who want their blonde to grow out beautifully over 4 to 6 months, says Suzi.
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While every colorist develops their own approach behind the chair, these are some of the techniques Suzi relies on to create dimensional blondes with seamless grow-out and long-lasting results.
How to formulate and foil expensive-looking blondes—click to watch the tips in action.
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