How To Correct Square- & Triangle-Shaped Curly Cuts
Learn How Square- & Triangle-Shaped Cuts Happen + How To Fix Them
If your clientele includes curly girls, we’ll let you in on a little secret: Many of them don’t want triangle- or square-shaped cuts. So we’re teaching you how these shapes happen, how to correct them AND the top curly cutting mistake to avoid making! Keep scrolling to get all the deets from three curly cutting pros.
How Do Square- & Triangle-Shaped Cuts Happen?
“Square layers usually happen in curly cuts where the hair is cut at a 90-degree angle,” explains BTC Team Member Jamal Edmonds (@lamajbackwards). “Round layers are usually a mix between 45 degrees on the sides and 90 degrees in the top.” The result? A cut that is heavy on the ends and flat up top.
What’s The Ideal Shape For Curly Cuts?
Trick question! Most stylists say there’s no such thing because shape depends on factors like the client’s face shape, texture type and density. “Each haircut depends on the curl type and needs to be customized individually based on the specific needs of the hair,” shares Curly Expert Leysa Carrillo (@leysahairandmakeup).
However, BTC Team Member Rachel Williams (@rachelwstylist) says the reason why you may want to avoid a square or triangle shape is because they hide the face and give curls zero movement or bounce. “It will also leave the crown flat and bulky at the bottom, which makes it very hard to manage,” she notes.
How To Correct A Square Or Triangle Cut
A square- or triangle-shaped cut is usually transformed into something more rounded because it can be a very flattering shape for many curl types, and Jamal says the easiest way to do that is to create graduation in the exterior (under the occipital bone). Then, cut visually curl by curl, rounding the shape out as you approach the crown.
Note: Another way to correct square and triangle cuts is with proper layering, which is what Leysa does along with graduation.
Watch the video below to get a peek at how Jamal cuts & styles a rounded curly shape!
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Avoid This Major Mistake When Cutting Curls
The #1 curly cutting mistake? Wetting the hair or blowing it out first. Those make it easy to take off too much of the length, so Rachel recommends leaving the hair dry and in its natural state. “Some curly textures can be up to five inches longer while wet than versus dry, so when you’re cutting wet you can actually take way too much length off. In most cases of curly hair, less is more,” shares Rachel.