3 Cutting Mistakes That Can Ruin Tight Curl Patterns
When it comes to cutting tight textures, precision is everything. Few people understand that better than Nubia Rëzo (@nubiarezo), creator of the Rëzo Cut and a globally recognized authority on textured hair. Through decades of education and hands-on work with curl clients around the world, Nubia has identified the small cutting mistakes that can have the biggest impact on shape, volume and balance.
In her BTC-U class, The Rëzo Cut: Tight Textures, Nubia breaks down the techniques behind her signature approach to cutting textured hair. “The back of the head is 50 percent of the haircut,” she says, emphasizing the importance of a strong foundation. Below, she shares three common mistakes to avoid when cutting tight curls—and how to refine your technique for better results.
See the techniques below in action in this transformation from Nubia’s BTC-U class:
1. Overcutting Key Sections
One of the most common mistakes stylists make with tight textures is overcutting certain areas—especially in the back. “In very tight textures, we tend to always see this section being overcut,” explains Nubia. This can flatten the shape and disrupt the balance of the haircut. Instead, focus on preserving length and volume by working with the natural curl pattern and avoiding unnecessary removal.
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Nubia emphasizes the importance of understanding the role of the back as the foundation of the haircut. “Sectioning the back is 50 percent of the entire haircut,” she says. To achieve the signature roundness of the Rëzo Cut, focus on circular cutting techniques and avoid harsh lines or shelves.
2. Ignoring Texture Variation
Every head of curls is unique, and failing to account for texture variation within the same client can lead to uneven results. “We already know she has a little bit of different textures, like a perfect curly client—looser on one side and tighter on the other,” Nubia explains. During the consultation, take the time to map out the different curl patterns and assess areas that may require special attention.
When cutting, work section by section, treating each curl type independently. Nubia recommends using the ARC Scissors™ Curve, a shear designed specifically for curly hair cutting. Unlike traditional shears, the Curve features a weighted tip that helps support the circular cutting motions used in the Rëzo Cut, making it easier to create balanced, rounded shapes while working with the natural curl pattern. “The tighter the texture, the less pressure you apply,” she advises.
3. Cutting Without Proper Diagnosis
Cutting tight textures without a thorough diagnosis is a recipe for disaster. Nubia insists that clients arrive with clean, product-free hair to allow for an accurate assessment. “The more naked the hair is, the better you can diagnose the different textures,” she says. Products can alter the appearance of the curl pattern, leading to misjudgments.
“At the end of the day, it’s not about removing the entire length to create a shape,” Nubia reminds us. “It’s about working with what’s there to enhance volume and balance.”
Bonus Tip: Master Your Tools
The right tools make all the difference when working with tight textures. Nubia relies on the ARC Scissors™ Curve, a shear created specifically for curly hair cutting and designed to support the circular techniques that define the Rëzo Cut. Its weighted tip helps maintain control while creating rounded shapes, making it easier to preserve balance, volume and movement throughout the haircut.
“The blade is incredibly sharp, which is why we [use it to] cut dry hair,” Nubia notes. That level of precision is essential when working curl by curl, allowing stylists to refine shape without disrupting the hair’s natural pattern or removing unnecessary length.
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Click below to watch Nubia use ARC to create shape and movement while keeping balance and control:
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